Monday, May 14, 2012

Victorian Shirt: Part 4 (collar and cuffs 1)

The shirt is finished! I don't have a picture of it!

Well, it pretty much looks like the last photo in the previous post, except that it has a collar band on it.

Interestingly, since finishing I learned about a different method of doing cuff bands and collar bands that would drastically help with my problem of too much fabric to fit a collar stud through (though I think it won't be a problem with this shirt). Instead of fashioning the bands from fabric, reinforced with interlining, simply use a piece of stiff ribbon or tape, such as petersham or a starched grosgrain. It would certainly cut down on bulk.

Now that I've finished the shirt I need to make a collar and cuffs for it. Thinking about the styles, I came across some really interesting cuff designs from Ageless Patterns:

It strikes me as odd that all of the cuffs fasten from the centre of the cuff instead of at the ends. Since the first set of buttonholes is for attaching it to the cuff band, that means that half the cuff comes back over the sleeve and the wrist. I don't know if that would even be comfortable. I may have to draft a cuff like this and try it out, just to see what it's like.

In any case, I'll make a collar or two as well, and will probably choose something from The Cutter's Practical Guide (189?) or from patterns from the Costumer's Manifesto.


  1. Thanks for posting all this! Great stuff. I'm currently making a shirt from the same Laughing Moon pattern. This is for a Steampunk costume so I'm not too worried about being 100% authentic, although I do want to try some things out (like detachable collar and cuffs). I've completed most of the shirt already and am quite pleased at how it is coming out (I've sewn before but never anything quite like this!). I am using some plain cotton broadcloth for the main body and a nicely patterned (white on white) cotton for the bosom. I ended up doing the seams for the bosom on the inside instead of the outside because I didn't quite understand the directions. Oh, well. It looks OK and at least now I know for next time. I need a lot more practice with this "flat-fell" stuff ;-) I've had a heck of a time trying to find a suitable stiff woven interfacing. Every place I've gone has shown me either light-weight woven, stiff iron-on non-woven, or something really stiff that looks like plastic canvas. I'm also as confused as you are about the attachment of the detachable cuffs. I'm totally confused about how they go on. If you've got any more information about that I'd be very interested. I'll probably end up making the cuffs and collar in the next week or 2.

    Thanks again for your efforts!

    You can have a look at my blog at There isn't much there (a few posts about other fiber arts projects) but I'll probably put up some photos of the shirt and the rest of my outfit as I get it done.

  2. I am reasonably certain that those cuff are intended to be turned around so you may wear them twice before laundering.