Wednesday, October 24, 2012
I finished all of the welt pockets and basted them shut so they don't pull out of place while I work with the canvas. I also basted the pocket bags folded up in half so they don't accidentally get sewn into the canvas or seams.
The next step is interesting because it uses the waistcoat itself as the pattern instead of the paper pattern. Because I stretched the fabric in a few places (on purpose, with an iron, to give the fabric some shape beyond its flat nature), I simply lay the fabric on top of the canvas, basted it in place, and then trimmed around the edges. I then trimmed an additional quarter inch around all the edges except for the side and shoulder, where it will be seamed to the back piece.
Below the lapel you can see an additional piece of canvas added for buttonhole support.
I said above that I just need to apply the lining. Unlike most modern patterns, this waistcoat is not made in two pieces with a shell and a lining. The lining is applied directly to the two front pieces, which are then attached to the back as complete pieces. I suppose it would be much easier to alter the waistcoat without having to change the lining, since it's all attached. Does that make sense? It will in my next post.
Friday, October 19, 2012
This is going to take a while to finish, but I'm glad I made the muslin first - it taught me a lot. I'm not entirely sure how I'm going to do the notch collar. I made it in two pieces for the muslin, but I'd like to use just one for the final version, so I think I'm going to have to wait and add it in last when I can get an accurate measurement for the perfect size. I'll pad stitch it, along with the lapels on the waistcoat.