tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-69616765610872689762024-03-12T17:42:26.634-07:00Victorian TailoringAndrewhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16521665413895628896noreply@blogger.comBlogger55125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6961676561087268976.post-12298023153687126112014-11-13T09:39:00.000-08:002014-11-13T09:40:08.038-08:001830s Dress Coat - The Reveal<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Look at those shoulders! Just look at them!</div>
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The shoulders are the only part of this coat I just don't like. Maybe someday I'll update the coat to some 1840s sleeves instead of the earlier poofs that it has now.</div>
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Here's a photo from when I wore the outfit to Old Sturbridge Village. As I recall the weather was warm and the snow was melting to make a lot of mud. But at least I was warm enough in my outfit. The hat is shaped wrong for the period, but it'll have to do.</div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-f78kRyd-nn4/VGS1xh5Dr3I/AAAAAAAABFg/PQhNziPGVII/s1600/1830scoat_16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-f78kRyd-nn4/VGS1xh5Dr3I/AAAAAAAABFg/PQhNziPGVII/s640/1830scoat_16.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Yesterday I had my wife take some other photos in our living room. I thought I'd pretend I was reading. :)<br />
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If this were the 1830s I'd be clean-shaven.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-17B1uiCP6js/VGS1xqvvsXI/AAAAAAAABFk/seM-U9AAot8/s1600/1830scoat_17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-17B1uiCP6js/VGS1xqvvsXI/AAAAAAAABFk/seM-U9AAot8/s640/1830scoat_17.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mqHHeInTgII/VGS1xiFo8GI/AAAAAAAABGA/1RViyaJ7gVw/s1600/1830scoat_18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mqHHeInTgII/VGS1xiFo8GI/AAAAAAAABGA/1RViyaJ7gVw/s640/1830scoat_18.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AlfxcmlUJHc/VGS1ybY6LsI/AAAAAAAABFo/8EBmNQy4AMI/s1600/1830scoat_19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AlfxcmlUJHc/VGS1ybY6LsI/AAAAAAAABFo/8EBmNQy4AMI/s640/1830scoat_19.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6N_-6rd6WJE/VGS1zJ0hxtI/AAAAAAAABF0/Rr1_IyMS_z0/s1600/1830scoat_20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6N_-6rd6WJE/VGS1zJ0hxtI/AAAAAAAABF0/Rr1_IyMS_z0/s640/1830scoat_20.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
<br />Andrewhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16521665413895628896noreply@blogger.com24tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6961676561087268976.post-9728363075045305652014-11-12T13:41:00.000-08:002014-11-13T09:39:53.811-08:001830s Dress Coat - FinishingIt's been an awfully long time since I've posted.<br />
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I'm sorry.<br />
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We bought a house.<br />
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It was built in 1738.<br />
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It needs some TLC.<br />
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I actually finished the 1830s coat and went to the Old Sturbridge Village dinner wearing it, but basically as soon as I finished we bought the house and then I was immersed in home improvement projects. I kept thinking, "I have to post to my blog" but then projects took over.<br />
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That's not entirely true, because I've done a few other tailoring projects since then, but I somehow kept getting distracted from posting to my blog. And I apologize.<br />
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Here are the details on finishing the coat, and I'll post photos of the finished result next. Sooner than 8 months, I promise.<br />
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Anyway, after doing my fitting with basted seams I ripped the whole coat apart and started sewing it together for real. Obviously everything is hand-sewn - all seams are back stitched, and most everything else is felled or catch-stitched. As always, you can click on the images for a larger view.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SIvSAANSTLo/VGPSaFV4BTI/AAAAAAAABEc/NPy7-zjgSOA/s1600/1830scoat_09.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SIvSAANSTLo/VGPSaFV4BTI/AAAAAAAABEc/NPy7-zjgSOA/s400/1830scoat_09.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The skirts are pleated into tails.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tfxfvE2Oi7s/VGPSaFraylI/AAAAAAAABEk/Nq45T9QtGsc/s1600/1830scoat_10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tfxfvE2Oi7s/VGPSaFraylI/AAAAAAAABEk/Nq45T9QtGsc/s400/1830scoat_10.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The collar canvas is basted to the cloth before being padded.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-voaJhecXZ8M/VGPSaGBOEGI/AAAAAAAABEg/D3jkdWxwwkg/s1600/1830scoat_11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-voaJhecXZ8M/VGPSaGBOEGI/AAAAAAAABEg/D3jkdWxwwkg/s400/1830scoat_11.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The collar and revers. I'm not sure why the left lapel is so wrinkled. It really isn't that bad when I'm wearing it.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5VCgvi8R2SI/VGPSam_1X_I/AAAAAAAABFI/mA5DVFM3Lo8/s1600/1830scoat_12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5VCgvi8R2SI/VGPSam_1X_I/AAAAAAAABFI/mA5DVFM3Lo8/s400/1830scoat_12.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The sleeves. The 1830s coat has funky, floppy cuffs. And giant poofy sleeve heads. I really don't like the style, but I'm a slave to fashion.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sULisSuC1bo/VGPSa1F1iAI/AAAAAAAABEs/p--0fDbzaB8/s1600/1830scoat_13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sULisSuC1bo/VGPSa1F1iAI/AAAAAAAABEs/p--0fDbzaB8/s400/1830scoat_13.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The sleeve linings. Obviously the cuffs have working buttons (i.e. "surgeon's cuffs").<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AwAEXq20pqg/VGPSa35y6DI/AAAAAAAABEw/8mSHapw4epA/s1600/1830scoat_14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AwAEXq20pqg/VGPSa35y6DI/AAAAAAAABEw/8mSHapw4epA/s400/1830scoat_14.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The outside of the cuffs. Floppy, floppy.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FWqDW8QlU34/VGPSbDfpI-I/AAAAAAAABE0/3HIIIh34EEE/s1600/1830scoat_15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FWqDW8QlU34/VGPSbDfpI-I/AAAAAAAABE0/3HIIIh34EEE/s400/1830scoat_15.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />Andrewhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16521665413895628896noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6961676561087268976.post-41404075113284305352014-01-17T10:45:00.002-08:002014-01-17T10:46:03.154-08:001830s Dress Coat - Drafting and skeleton basteDon't let the name "dress coat" fool you here - although it was certainly a coat for wearing to fancy occasions (and has today become the standard for white collar wear), this tail coat shows up in William Sidney Mount's work tattered and full of holes as well. It was pretty much the only alternative to a frock coat. Short jackets were less common.<br />
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The one I'm making is single-breasted, which means that it doesn't actually button in front. It will have buttons and fake buttonholes. I chose a design from around 1830, instead of closer to 1840. This means that it doesn't have a separate side panel, but instead the front and side are cut as one. I haven't decided yet if I want side pockets, but I've cut some pocket flaps just in case.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oYflVXftDy4/Utl3jQE-pXI/AAAAAAAAA_E/l4ugnWoX460/s1600/1830scoat_01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oYflVXftDy4/Utl3jQE-pXI/AAAAAAAAA_E/l4ugnWoX460/s1600/1830scoat_01.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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The canvas is prepared much in the same way as the <a href="http://victoriantailor.blogspot.com/2013/01/frock-coat-1-drafting-and-canvas.html" target="_blank">linen frock coat</a>, except that because of the earlier period it doesn't have additional canvas pad stitched into the chest. Instead it gets chest padding like the <a href="http://victoriantailor.blogspot.com/2013/12/1830s-vest-finished.html" target="_blank">1830s vest</a>. I cut the canvas:<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3iNuP99aR9k/Utl3jcacXoI/AAAAAAAAA_A/4bBwFt4XAa0/s1600/1830scoat_02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3iNuP99aR9k/Utl3jcacXoI/AAAAAAAAA_A/4bBwFt4XAa0/s1600/1830scoat_02.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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Chalk out where I want the padding, and add wool batting. You can also see where I added gores to shape the canvas:<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JN8PuO3zBdw/Utl3jYmWv9I/AAAAAAAAA_I/8K1f8ZUona8/s1600/1830scoat_03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JN8PuO3zBdw/Utl3jYmWv9I/AAAAAAAAA_I/8K1f8ZUona8/s1600/1830scoat_03.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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After covering the batting with a piece of linen I pad stitched the whole thing:<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iYjTzBGilI8/Utl3ml0iaXI/AAAAAAAAA_0/eO9QHyF_5_Q/s1600/1830scoat_04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iYjTzBGilI8/Utl3ml0iaXI/AAAAAAAAA_0/eO9QHyF_5_Q/s1600/1830scoat_04.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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The linen side of the padding:<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-O24Gzapw5FI/Utl3kQL0sbI/AAAAAAAAA_c/F3bGcBa8XHM/s1600/1830scoat_05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-O24Gzapw5FI/Utl3kQL0sbI/AAAAAAAAA_c/F3bGcBa8XHM/s1600/1830scoat_05.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Then the canvas was basted into the fronts. You can see at the shoulder seam how the canvas is already shaping the coat. It looks as though the basting wrinkled the coat, but it isn't really that bad. The camera flash really brought out the worst of it.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xmDN9YRugco/Utl3kv55T9I/AAAAAAAAA_U/4wlC7AlIu1s/s1600/1830scoat_06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xmDN9YRugco/Utl3kv55T9I/AAAAAAAAA_U/4wlC7AlIu1s/s1600/1830scoat_06.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Don't I look grumpy? This is the skeleton baste: everything is only basted together, with no lining or collar. The sleeves aren't set right - they need to turn forward a bit, and I don't like the puffiness at the sleeve heads. I may have to do some serious gathering.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H-GH3Kjv81w/Utl3lAs9b3I/AAAAAAAAA_k/b6vXpZrVcbE/s1600/1830scoat_07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H-GH3Kjv81w/Utl3lAs9b3I/AAAAAAAAA_k/b6vXpZrVcbE/s1600/1830scoat_07.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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This example, from <a href="http://www.augusta-auction.com/component/auctions/?view=lot&id=4509&auction_file_id=8" target="_blank">Augusta Auctions</a>, shows how drastic the sleeve head gathering can be:<br />
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<a href="http://www.augusta-auction.com/auctions/8/335/0335b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://www.augusta-auction.com/auctions/8/335/0335b.jpg" height="400" width="278" /></a></div>
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Anyway, I made lots of chalk marks. The diagonal slashes at the waist are where I want to shrink out some fullness, and the armscye is going to be drawn in below the right shoulder.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-h1K31YmSTm8/Utl3ljIlJaI/AAAAAAAAA_s/Dq9lyuqQB3E/s1600/1830scoat_08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-h1K31YmSTm8/Utl3ljIlJaI/AAAAAAAAA_s/Dq9lyuqQB3E/s1600/1830scoat_08.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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<br />Andrewhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16521665413895628896noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6961676561087268976.post-88523145223467163572013-12-09T18:51:00.000-08:002013-12-09T18:51:34.899-08:001830s Vest: Finished<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
It's been far too long since I've posted - sorry! A couple big projects took up most of my time, but now I'm back, and the vest is finished.</div>
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When I left off, I had added the facings, so now it's time to work on the lining. I apologize, because the red of the lining is hard to colour-balance. It's really a brick red, but it's polished cotton so it shines a little bit. If you recall from<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-it4-FQwPnL8/Uj3t8RRvHPI/AAAAAAAAA4s/l4TdnsNZiYA/s1600/vest02.jpg" target="_blank"> the pattern</a>, there was a quilted section in the chest. I've outlined the area with tailor's tacks, and in the back I add a little bit of wool batting: </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fDRzvcY_wuw/UqZ8oP4MUlI/AAAAAAAAA6c/SrhRbNltt78/s1600/vest14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fDRzvcY_wuw/UqZ8oP4MUlI/AAAAAAAAA6c/SrhRbNltt78/s400/vest14.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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Over the top of the batting I basted a circle of thin linen. This has a 1/4" seam allowance to match with the encircled ared:<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Qm-xQ2unIto/UqZ8oNyBrHI/AAAAAAAAA6k/zY3fHAZTTIs/s1600/vest15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Qm-xQ2unIto/UqZ8oNyBrHI/AAAAAAAAA6k/zY3fHAZTTIs/s400/vest15.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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After quilting, the front of the lining looks like this:<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Xx44Bjldnw8/UqZ8oDGxLXI/AAAAAAAAA6g/w8IUWIPrhec/s1600/vest16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Xx44Bjldnw8/UqZ8oDGxLXI/AAAAAAAAA6g/w8IUWIPrhec/s400/vest16.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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And the back looks like this. Also, now I've basted the front armscye of the cloth and lining together.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RVm5XHfCGdg/UqZ8ok3jpTI/AAAAAAAAA6o/batzWYMnoT4/s1600/vest17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RVm5XHfCGdg/UqZ8ok3jpTI/AAAAAAAAA6o/batzWYMnoT4/s400/vest17.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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The lining is turned in and prick stitched to the fronts.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tYo7DDQ9RyA/UqZ8rnm2LmI/AAAAAAAAA8A/Pien6gwrRYk/s1600/vest18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tYo7DDQ9RyA/UqZ8rnm2LmI/AAAAAAAAA8A/Pien6gwrRYk/s400/vest18.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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A pleat is placed into the lining. If the quilting weren't there the pleat would run the full length of the vest, but now it tapers in and out of the quilting above and below. This pleat allows the vest to curve around my body without pulling at the lining. I've also felled the lining to the facing.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uDHvrPE8iXk/UqZ8o-NOOfI/AAAAAAAAA7A/mvZAn5LQxmc/s1600/vest19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uDHvrPE8iXk/UqZ8o-NOOfI/AAAAAAAAA7A/mvZAn5LQxmc/s400/vest19.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Before attaching the backs, I basted some scraps of linen into them where I'll attach the back stays. This will help keep the stitches from pulling through the fabric.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5FFNVamwllE/UqZ8o61CGGI/AAAAAAAAA60/Rm7EXyRPJFQ/s1600/vest20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5FFNVamwllE/UqZ8o61CGGI/AAAAAAAAA60/Rm7EXyRPJFQ/s400/vest20.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The back is attached (sorry, no photos of the process), and buttonholes are marked. Somehow I ended up with 7 buttonholes. I didn't really mean to, but that's all right - they all fit.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-c-hBDXqLd8E/UqZ8pfPGQjI/AAAAAAAAA7I/lUj801C-F88/s1600/vest21.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-c-hBDXqLd8E/UqZ8pfPGQjI/AAAAAAAAA7I/lUj801C-F88/s400/vest21.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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Basting to hold all the layers in place:<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sK5F5bROhCQ/UqZ8puQuutI/AAAAAAAAA7Q/c3N4fB9Bylw/s1600/vest22.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sK5F5bROhCQ/UqZ8puQuutI/AAAAAAAAA7Q/c3N4fB9Bylw/s400/vest22.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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Finished buttons and buttonholes. The buttons are self-covered wooden blanks from <a href="http://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/woodbuttonmoulds.aspx" target="_blank">Burnley & Trowbridge</a>.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SfBsPlXGlDs/UqZ8qTKuuKI/AAAAAAAAA7o/__wdQ9dmVXI/s1600/vest24.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SfBsPlXGlDs/UqZ8qTKuuKI/AAAAAAAAA7o/__wdQ9dmVXI/s400/vest24.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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The finished vest. Please do click on these and all the photos to enlarge them to full size.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UHh_0fNhI_c/UqZ8qBTkp9I/AAAAAAAAA7U/Do-DRQXjqEY/s1600/vest23.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UHh_0fNhI_c/UqZ8qBTkp9I/AAAAAAAAA7U/Do-DRQXjqEY/s400/vest23.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5KeNIpmkgFg/UqZ8qq1LerI/AAAAAAAAA7g/4K1Dz9Pu6Lw/s1600/vest25.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5KeNIpmkgFg/UqZ8qq1LerI/AAAAAAAAA7g/4K1Dz9Pu6Lw/s400/vest25.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hTm0DPHaWQs/UqZ8q_QNpUI/AAAAAAAAA7s/ysKz5ngF6WQ/s1600/vest26.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hTm0DPHaWQs/UqZ8q_QNpUI/AAAAAAAAA7s/ysKz5ngF6WQ/s400/vest26.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AYdFI67kgas/UqZ8rEImVrI/AAAAAAAAA70/RgfoPNRrKN8/s1600/vest27.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AYdFI67kgas/UqZ8rEImVrI/AAAAAAAAA70/RgfoPNRrKN8/s400/vest27.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />Andrewhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16521665413895628896noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6961676561087268976.post-66051111235788507362013-09-23T11:15:00.000-07:002013-09-23T11:15:43.066-07:001830s Vest: Drafting and making upSo where have I been for so long? I've had a couple of other tailoring projects I was (and still am) working on that took priority over historical tailoring. I also moved, out of the big city to the 'burbs. This gives me my own tailoring room! I built a tailoring bench:<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oSa-n7bZufE/Uj3sIkKGhXI/AAAAAAAAA4g/w6xIHUX6lwE/s1600/vest01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oSa-n7bZufE/Uj3sIkKGhXI/AAAAAAAAA4g/w6xIHUX6lwE/s400/vest01.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I just need some more wood for lower shelves, instead of putting the cloth on the floor. It's the perfect height for drafting, and not too hard to sit on.</div>
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Anyway, after the research from the last post I decided to make the vest from buff broadcloth, with a red polished cotton back and lining, and ties to cinch it in back. I used the "Single-breasted roll-collar waistcoat, 1830s-1840s" draft from <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Mens-Garments-1830-1900-Pattern-Tailoring/dp/0887346480/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1379790248&sr=1-1&keywords=r.i.+davis" target="_blank">R.I. Davis' Men's Garments 1830-1900</a>.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-it4-FQwPnL8/Uj3t8RRvHPI/AAAAAAAAA4s/l4TdnsNZiYA/s1600/vest02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-it4-FQwPnL8/Uj3t8RRvHPI/AAAAAAAAA4s/l4TdnsNZiYA/s400/vest02.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
You can see where I'm going to add padding in the chest lining. I also wasn't sold on what kind of cinching I was going to use, and you can see two different tab ideas for lacing. In the end I won't use either of these methods, instead attaching cotton tape to the back as ties.<br />
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This broadcloth is pretty fabulous. I ordered it from <a href="http://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/2000-3.aspx" target="_blank">Burnley & Trowbridge</a>. Here it is after using the iron to shape it. You can see that the cloth doesn't want to lie flat, and in fact has quite a bit of volume now that I've shrunk and stretched various edges:<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-y6MWASIe7JI/Uj3t8VZpsQI/AAAAAAAAA40/MewDM2dPhAc/s1600/vest03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-y6MWASIe7JI/Uj3t8VZpsQI/AAAAAAAAA40/MewDM2dPhAc/s400/vest03.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The back pieces, in red polished cotton (ordered from <a href="http://www.paylessfabric.com/servlet/the-382/Discount-Fabric-Polished-Cotton/Detail" target="_blank">Payless Fabric</a>). The back pattern piece is cut in two double pieces, for the inside and outside backs.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jdNbd9Yj60A/Uj3t8qaoJXI/AAAAAAAAA4w/Qk_ALsiSh3o/s1600/vest04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jdNbd9Yj60A/Uj3t8qaoJXI/AAAAAAAAA4w/Qk_ALsiSh3o/s400/vest04.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I used the front piece as a template to cut the canvas for the fronts. In this case since the broadcloth is already pretty heavy I used cotton muslin for the canvas, cut on the bias.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rAf-17nLnyA/Uj3t8zu_IKI/AAAAAAAAA48/KfxGeqMsa5g/s1600/vest05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rAf-17nLnyA/Uj3t8zu_IKI/AAAAAAAAA48/KfxGeqMsa5g/s400/vest05.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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The pockets are done in the same way as <a href="http://victoriantailor.blogspot.com/2012/09/welt-pockets.html" target="_blank">I've done before</a>.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2Y1fHSrUVFQ/Uj3t9c-8PtI/AAAAAAAAA5Q/JYiImiCKlIc/s1600/vest06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2Y1fHSrUVFQ/Uj3t9c-8PtI/AAAAAAAAA5Q/JYiImiCKlIc/s400/vest06.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here I've added the collar extension, basted in the canvas, and basted in the edge tape. The tape for the collar roll line is basted in tight, to help keep the collar against the chest. The bottom edge is turned up, and creates its own facing to attach the lining to.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ggXWj9CUBPA/Uj3t9HtZuRI/AAAAAAAAA58/Tnuqk4MI1JQ/s1600/vest07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ggXWj9CUBPA/Uj3t9HtZuRI/AAAAAAAAA58/Tnuqk4MI1JQ/s400/vest07.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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The edge of the button extension turned over and cross stitched to the canvas.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_Psp3tuw5z8/Uj3t9SzLhxI/AAAAAAAAA5I/vHtsmZP9WBI/s1600/vest08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_Psp3tuw5z8/Uj3t9SzLhxI/AAAAAAAAA5I/vHtsmZP9WBI/s400/vest08.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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Now I discover a problem. This broadcloth is thick. It's about 1/16" thick on its own. Fold that over, and add a folded over facing, and I'm looking at a front edge that's 1/4" thick! I was worried that this might happen (but not worried enough that I took steps to fix it ahead of time). Enter the beauty of broadcloth - because it's tightly-woven and then felted, you can use a raw edge and not worry about it fraying. This was actually common with period clothing, and I've seen examples of this in person (I don't have any photos though).<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MO8--z-1ndQ/Uj3t9nZUM7I/AAAAAAAAA5U/cbJrdmPii78/s1600/vest09.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MO8--z-1ndQ/Uj3t9nZUM7I/AAAAAAAAA5U/cbJrdmPii78/s400/vest09.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I cut off the turn-over of the button extension, and trimmed 1/4" (the seam allowances) off the collar and facing edges. This isn't too pretty where I've already stitched on the edge tape, but I'm not going to take it off. This edge will be underneath the buttoned-up front so I'm not worried about catching a glimpse of the canvas. The buttonhole-side I hadn't done yet, so I trimmed the canvas back before I stitched on the edge tape for that piece.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-J83dF5Y_pI4/Uj3t936R9II/AAAAAAAAA5c/iRLQ3r0bQAE/s1600/vest10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-J83dF5Y_pI4/Uj3t936R9II/AAAAAAAAA5c/iRLQ3r0bQAE/s400/vest10.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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I basted the facing in place. In the front where it buttons, the facing is just behind the front, and then shifts to be just ahead of the undercollar. Does that make sense? That way, the pieces that will be showing are overlapping the pieces that won't.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GRkqj99Ce_o/Uj3t-NIxN3I/AAAAAAAAA5o/AH5UdunZve0/s1600/vest11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GRkqj99Ce_o/Uj3t-NIxN3I/AAAAAAAAA5o/AH5UdunZve0/s400/vest11.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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After felling the facing in place you can see how it wants to lie - it's not flat. This will (hopefully) form around my chest and neck.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BdE0EkxjGpY/Uj3t-SVqzTI/AAAAAAAAA5w/7MhMgeGc5qA/s1600/vest12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BdE0EkxjGpY/Uj3t-SVqzTI/AAAAAAAAA5w/7MhMgeGc5qA/s400/vest12.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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Success! After felling the total thickness of the front edge is just over 1/16".<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-H-RH12ndx1I/Uj3t-qQpIqI/AAAAAAAAA50/agVwZ407k5c/s1600/vest13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-H-RH12ndx1I/Uj3t-qQpIqI/AAAAAAAAA50/agVwZ407k5c/s320/vest13.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Andrewhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16521665413895628896noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6961676561087268976.post-81681093414392027672013-09-21T11:54:00.003-07:002013-09-21T11:55:15.025-07:001830s Vest: ResearchVest or waistcoat? In this case I'll call it a vest. I'm feeling American today. Which reminds me of the Dr. Who episode where Captain Jack Harkness - ostensibly American - refers to wearing a vest:<br />
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<a href="http://ichef.bbci.co.uk/images/ic/512xn/p00qd3qc.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://ichef.bbci.co.uk/images/ic/512xn/p00qd3qc.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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That will increase my page views, I'm sure.</div>
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But I'm making a vest in the American sense. Most of the images I can find online of 1830s vests are pretty fancy silk affairs. They all have shawl collars. The backs are polished cotton. You can see that there are two different methods of cinching the back - ties and laces.</div>
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<a href="http://digitalcollection.chicagohistory.org/utils/ajaxhelper/?CISOROOT=p16029coll3&CISOPTR=862&action=2&DMSCALE=15&DMWIDTH=276&DMHEIGHT=375&DMX=0&DMY=0&DMTEXT=&DMROTATE=0" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://digitalcollection.chicagohistory.org/utils/ajaxhelper/?CISOROOT=p16029coll3&CISOPTR=862&action=2&DMSCALE=15&DMWIDTH=276&DMHEIGHT=375&DMX=0&DMY=0&DMTEXT=&DMROTATE=0" width="146" /></a><a href="http://digitalcollection.chicagohistory.org/utils/ajaxhelper/?CISOROOT=p16029coll3&CISOPTR=863&action=2&DMSCALE=15&DMWIDTH=271&DMHEIGHT=375&DMX=0&DMY=0&DMTEXT=&DMROTATE=0" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://digitalcollection.chicagohistory.org/utils/ajaxhelper/?CISOROOT=p16029coll3&CISOPTR=863&action=2&DMSCALE=15&DMWIDTH=271&DMHEIGHT=375&DMX=0&DMY=0&DMTEXT=&DMROTATE=0" width="144" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://collections.lacma.org/sites/default/files/remote_images/piction/ma-31256111-WEB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://collections.lacma.org/sites/default/files/remote_images/piction/ma-31256111-WEB.jpg" width="147" /></a></div>
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Now I'll turn to my friend, William Sidney Mount. There are plenty of vests depicted in his paintings. Most of them are shawl collars, though there are one or two notch collars. All but one that I can see are single-breasted, and many have red backs. Quite often they are black, but it seems that when they're shown with a black coat, they tend to be buff. They're all cinched with ties, when shown. The one that you an see inside is lined with the same polished red cotton as the back. They all come to a shallow point at the front waist.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nSSS_tsgBuo/Uj3pcGrvQBI/AAAAAAAAA3E/t5Futfbcv28/s1600/mount_vest01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nSSS_tsgBuo/Uj3pcGrvQBI/AAAAAAAAA3E/t5Futfbcv28/s1600/mount_vest01.jpg" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5RR_U2pUqps/Uj3pcNH5xWI/AAAAAAAAA3I/A2bJj02OCO8/s1600/mount_vest02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5RR_U2pUqps/Uj3pcNH5xWI/AAAAAAAAA3I/A2bJj02OCO8/s1600/mount_vest02.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dVQW8bAC8zA/Uj3pcaBYnqI/AAAAAAAAA3g/Z8PKvx-AsEA/s1600/mount_vest04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dVQW8bAC8zA/Uj3pcaBYnqI/AAAAAAAAA3g/Z8PKvx-AsEA/s1600/mount_vest04.jpg" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rOphXdNJihw/Uj3pcnvKNjI/AAAAAAAAA3c/WgL_92mu3_w/s1600/mount_vest06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rOphXdNJihw/Uj3pcnvKNjI/AAAAAAAAA3c/WgL_92mu3_w/s1600/mount_vest06.jpg" /></a></div>
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You can see the red lining above right.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QkpUF4UiW9Y/Uj3pcf5qF8I/AAAAAAAAA3Q/n7q5kzSfs0Y/s1600/mount_vest05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QkpUF4UiW9Y/Uj3pcf5qF8I/AAAAAAAAA3Q/n7q5kzSfs0Y/s1600/mount_vest05.jpg" /></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bnW6pGvXf4g/Uj3pcP9BCjI/AAAAAAAAA4Q/OIgzJ9PjNGM/s1600/mount_vest03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bnW6pGvXf4g/Uj3pcP9BCjI/AAAAAAAAA4Q/OIgzJ9PjNGM/s1600/mount_vest03.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jkUAd1Eko9Q/Uj3pdJ_ydZI/AAAAAAAAA3k/2oyRIVbEw_I/s1600/mount_vest07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jkUAd1Eko9Q/Uj3pdJ_ydZI/AAAAAAAAA3k/2oyRIVbEw_I/s1600/mount_vest07.jpg" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WJcUkEnEdt4/Uj3pduKwKmI/AAAAAAAAA30/ucjJPuD-d50/s1600/mount_vest09.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WJcUkEnEdt4/Uj3pduKwKmI/AAAAAAAAA30/ucjJPuD-d50/s1600/mount_vest09.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_RkWf-f2_RY/Uj3pdcc4G3I/AAAAAAAAA34/VU6rv65yi8c/s1600/mount_vest08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_RkWf-f2_RY/Uj3pdcc4G3I/AAAAAAAAA34/VU6rv65yi8c/s1600/mount_vest08.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-F0KUwrXJLOg/Uj3pd12iofI/AAAAAAAAA4A/xJer0W67SUE/s1600/mount_vest10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="196" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-F0KUwrXJLOg/Uj3pd12iofI/AAAAAAAAA4A/xJer0W67SUE/s320/mount_vest10.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Hey look - different paintings, but the two men on the left above seem to be the same! </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VXq6z1WyDQE/Uj3peDAWriI/AAAAAAAAA4I/V_AIUbOQkvA/s1600/mount_vest11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="194" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VXq6z1WyDQE/Uj3peDAWriI/AAAAAAAAA4I/V_AIUbOQkvA/s320/mount_vest11.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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A hint of white lining. This is also, I think, the only figure painted by Mount who isn't wearing a white shirt.</div>
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Next time I'll start work on the vest itself.</div>
Andrewhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16521665413895628896noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6961676561087268976.post-31929127337545968342013-07-22T13:35:00.000-07:002013-07-22T13:35:45.333-07:001830s Broadfall Trousers: Finished<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
It's been a while, but I've finally finished my broadfall trousers! The heat wave we've had for the past two weeks, on top of other projects, has kept me from working on these - there's nothing like sewing with a heap of heavy wool serge in your lap when it's 97 and humid. No thank you.</div>
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With the pockets finished, I could sew together the fronts and backs. Here you see everything basted together, ready for sewing the long seams.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Z3vqhlfvzeQ/Ue2ScQB59bI/AAAAAAAAA0s/Nnn4VBW-Zy4/s1600/1830trousers_35.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Z3vqhlfvzeQ/Ue2ScQB59bI/AAAAAAAAA0s/Nnn4VBW-Zy4/s400/1830trousers_35.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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You can see here how the added inlays are dealt with. The backs have added material for adjustment and size increases. The inlays are marked with thread tailor tacks, and this line matches with the edge of the fronts. I then know to sew 1/4" inside of that line.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7THVUZanvs0/Ue2ScQNVVrI/AAAAAAAAA0o/BI63obFT2iU/s1600/1830trousers_36.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7THVUZanvs0/Ue2ScQNVVrI/AAAAAAAAA0o/BI63obFT2iU/s400/1830trousers_36.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Based on the <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/79497?img=1" target="_blank">rear view of these trousers</a> I decided to widen the "V" at the back waist so I can add an adjustment strap. I didn't bother to change the cut, but just folded back more material and pressed. I later shrank out the little ripple of cloth that bubbled up because of the additional fold.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HEuAQ0xMUIE/Ue2ScWWozAI/AAAAAAAAA0w/dSrDxzl-kCQ/s1600/1830trousers_37.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HEuAQ0xMUIE/Ue2ScWWozAI/AAAAAAAAA0w/dSrDxzl-kCQ/s400/1830trousers_37.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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On the outside I made a bar tack to keep the V from tearing open.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fKM0NukYw_I/Ue2Sc8bxflI/AAAAAAAAA1w/uaeDpDBi3LM/s1600/1830trousers_38.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fKM0NukYw_I/Ue2Sc8bxflI/AAAAAAAAA1w/uaeDpDBi3LM/s400/1830trousers_38.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Sewing on suspender (braces) buttons, I added a bit of extra linen inside to help support them. I side-stitched the linen in place, then sewed on the buttons.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8AxRZ4tz4ZY/Ue2SdHJAdVI/AAAAAAAAA04/D5Xfx2_Zmx4/s1600/1830trousers_39.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8AxRZ4tz4ZY/Ue2SdHJAdVI/AAAAAAAAA04/D5Xfx2_Zmx4/s400/1830trousers_39.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The bearer buttonholes, in 3 different stages. The top buttonhole is completed and basted shut, the middle one is cut and whipped, and the bottom one is marked out for cutting.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cvzcwnr3-cQ/Ue2SdPeu4CI/AAAAAAAAA08/IpsEZijxDqg/s1600/1830trousers_40.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cvzcwnr3-cQ/Ue2SdPeu4CI/AAAAAAAAA08/IpsEZijxDqg/s400/1830trousers_40.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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To mark the button placement I lined up the edge of the flap with the blue tailor tacks, then scraped some chalk above the open ends of the buttonholes....<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NJYTHGFM_ug/Ue2SdVm3UgI/AAAAAAAAA1E/8zhcBB8vaaE/s1600/1830trousers_41.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NJYTHGFM_ug/Ue2SdVm3UgI/AAAAAAAAA1E/8zhcBB8vaaE/s400/1830trousers_41.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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Lifting up the flap, I have my buttons marked out.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xzV_xNpYEWU/Ue2SdkWwOSI/AAAAAAAAA1M/CLTOEXbZ-N4/s1600/1830trousers_42.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xzV_xNpYEWU/Ue2SdkWwOSI/AAAAAAAAA1M/CLTOEXbZ-N4/s400/1830trousers_42.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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After sewing on the buttons, the flap fits perfectly.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YLMDbkRy1Do/Ue2Sd_iZnyI/AAAAAAAAA1s/iPz8S0vtQMU/s1600/1830trousers_43.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YLMDbkRy1Do/Ue2Sd_iZnyI/AAAAAAAAA1s/iPz8S0vtQMU/s400/1830trousers_43.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The fall buttonholes, marked out. The two corners are done at angles, and the inside ones are vertical.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1hc2ioGhMFA/Ue2SeP3-5wI/AAAAAAAAA1Y/Lq_R-T1cCAU/s1600/1830trousers_44.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1hc2ioGhMFA/Ue2SeP3-5wI/AAAAAAAAA1Y/Lq_R-T1cCAU/s400/1830trousers_44.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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Halfway through sewing a buttonhole. You can see my homemade gimp - four strands of buttonhole silk twisted together.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VaMVQprrmCA/Ue2SeiZ4PCI/AAAAAAAAA1o/xh6V4UNNIWM/s1600/1830trousers_45.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VaMVQprrmCA/Ue2SeiZ4PCI/AAAAAAAAA1o/xh6V4UNNIWM/s400/1830trousers_45.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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All buttoned up! Well this flap isn't going anywhere.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-d1phZnqN6xI/Ue2SfFmbyRI/AAAAAAAAA2s/bA9OFVeRzUs/s1600/1830trousers_46.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-d1phZnqN6xI/Ue2SfFmbyRI/AAAAAAAAA2s/bA9OFVeRzUs/s400/1830trousers_46.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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On to the adjustment straps. The white linen backs are cut out the same size as the cloth. When basting them together I made the cloth fit inside the edge of the linen all around. This way when they're turned out the linen will be smaller than the cloth, and there will be a little overlap of cloth all around so the linen doesn't show in front.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yW-G2aUdIvY/Ue2SfY5GS1I/AAAAAAAAA2E/VCAo47kNwUo/s1600/1830trousers_47.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yW-G2aUdIvY/Ue2SfY5GS1I/AAAAAAAAA2E/VCAo47kNwUo/s400/1830trousers_47.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The adjustors sewn in place.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zJJ3Mr4rd0k/Ue2SfkWCmcI/AAAAAAAAA2A/x26vBvXS62M/s1600/1830trousers_48.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zJJ3Mr4rd0k/Ue2SfkWCmcI/AAAAAAAAA2A/x26vBvXS62M/s400/1830trousers_48.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_9X1vEEm8GU/Ue2SgQg7zaI/AAAAAAAAA2c/0UeFV3moLVU/s1600/1830trousers_50.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_9X1vEEm8GU/Ue2SgQg7zaI/AAAAAAAAA2c/0UeFV3moLVU/s400/1830trousers_50.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Finally two strips of lining fabric are sewn into the waistband. Early 19th century trousers apparently didn't have waistband curtain lining, so this is all I need to finish the trousers.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vlPwctpK2Dk/Ue2SgJv1BJI/AAAAAAAAA2M/2O4zdBPbPes/s1600/1830trousers_49.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vlPwctpK2Dk/Ue2SgJv1BJI/AAAAAAAAA2M/2O4zdBPbPes/s400/1830trousers_49.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The colours are really off in these last two photos. It was night time, and our living room light is very dim. I'll have to get some better photos outside, but for now this will have to do.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1SfFBef3_nE/Ue2Sgny2w9I/AAAAAAAAA2Y/AjcpPcn-LRc/s1600/1830trousers_51.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1SfFBef3_nE/Ue2Sgny2w9I/AAAAAAAAA2Y/AjcpPcn-LRc/s400/1830trousers_51.jpg" width="297" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PDTGhTs02Xw/Ue2ShBwg6mI/AAAAAAAAA2k/YoYdH06bODo/s1600/1830trousers_52.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PDTGhTs02Xw/Ue2ShBwg6mI/AAAAAAAAA2k/YoYdH06bODo/s400/1830trousers_52.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
<br />Andrewhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16521665413895628896noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6961676561087268976.post-70699992944822096592013-06-24T08:09:00.001-07:002013-06-24T08:15:08.792-07:001830s Broadfall Trousers: Pockets<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Next up for the trousers are the pockets in the bearers. The first thing to do is to sew the bearers to the backs of the trousers along the side seams. In theory I could also sew the fronts along the side seams, but I figured it would be easier to maneuver without them in the way.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-e6uVRoRJd9Q/Uchb-4U_wjI/AAAAAAAAAyk/6PjGwiM3H1U/s1600/1830trousers_19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-e6uVRoRJd9Q/Uchb-4U_wjI/AAAAAAAAAyk/6PjGwiM3H1U/s400/1830trousers_19.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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A strip of linen is basted behind the pocket marking on the back of the bearer. The linen extends over the side seam, so it will also reinforce the fronts when they're attached.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--MNeWYtoP8U/Uchb-5ibIvI/AAAAAAAAAyo/qEF-z-XXVM8/s1600/1830trousers_20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--MNeWYtoP8U/Uchb-5ibIvI/AAAAAAAAAyo/qEF-z-XXVM8/s400/1830trousers_20.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The first pocket jetting is basted along the pocket marking, and lines are drawn in chalk where the pocket ends.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4mXihTHhFjI/Uchb-55Ur0I/AAAAAAAAAyg/ZBX6sf0Q7kc/s1600/1830trousers_21.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4mXihTHhFjI/Uchb-55Ur0I/AAAAAAAAAyg/ZBX6sf0Q7kc/s400/1830trousers_21.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Then I realised that I'd basted the jetting in upside down - I want the selvedge to be at the end of the jetting so I don't have to fold it under when I fell it to the pocketing. Again, the pocket ends are marked.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-C_HXwe_ISX8/Uchb_Aw1qpI/AAAAAAAAAzA/G1xJZaW73Vc/s1600/1830trousers_22.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-C_HXwe_ISX8/Uchb_Aw1qpI/AAAAAAAAAzA/G1xJZaW73Vc/s400/1830trousers_22.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The top jetting is now basted in place as well, and the pocket ends are marked to be even with the bottom ones. I've drawn in two chalk lines 1/8" from the pocket mouth, just to ensure a straight line when I stitch them.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3DTXVzx6U8Y/Uchb_Zu16iI/AAAAAAAAAy4/ECwdq7lxcWk/s1600/1830trousers_23.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3DTXVzx6U8Y/Uchb_Zu16iI/AAAAAAAAAy4/ECwdq7lxcWk/s400/1830trousers_23.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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After stitching, I turn the bearer over and cut open the pocket from the back. Note the two "V" cuts at the ends, which are only cut through the bearer and linen - not through the jettings.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2Hxm5KiZmPQ/Uchb_YKdwvI/AAAAAAAAAy8/kHyYWeVl1dg/s1600/1830trousers_24.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2Hxm5KiZmPQ/Uchb_YKdwvI/AAAAAAAAAy8/kHyYWeVl1dg/s400/1830trousers_24.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Again in the front, you can see the cut doesn't go through the jettings.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CUfZXEsfvuo/Uchb_jkHt2I/AAAAAAAAAzY/rki0y2OcvaQ/s1600/1830trousers_25.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CUfZXEsfvuo/Uchb_jkHt2I/AAAAAAAAAzY/rki0y2OcvaQ/s400/1830trousers_25.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I turn in the top jetting so it hangs straight down in back, and the bottom jetting so it folds high enough to cover the entire pocket. The pocket opening is basted shut, and I side stitch along the bottom edge of the lower jetting, just going through the bearer, linen, and lower jetting, not through the top jetting. This fixes it in place, but doesn't sew the pocket shut.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mCE9D0BYpls/Uchb_86w8YI/AAAAAAAAAzM/Nw9cd-mkimA/s1600/1830trousers_26.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mCE9D0BYpls/Uchb_86w8YI/AAAAAAAAAzM/Nw9cd-mkimA/s400/1830trousers_26.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Then in back, I baste two strips of linen for bearers.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ifMhO3Q7XDs/Uchb_8RE84I/AAAAAAAAAzU/wVgpfIX8bdw/s1600/1830trousers_27.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ifMhO3Q7XDs/Uchb_8RE84I/AAAAAAAAAzU/wVgpfIX8bdw/s400/1830trousers_27.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I side stitch two "D" shapes at the ends of the pockets.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FkLRZqdUuuU/UchcAc3lGtI/AAAAAAAAAzg/ur8nGQBAAWw/s1600/1830trousers_28.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FkLRZqdUuuU/UchcAc3lGtI/AAAAAAAAAzg/ur8nGQBAAWw/s400/1830trousers_28.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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You can see that this stitching goes through the linen bearers. I also fell the side of the larger bearer to the side seam inlay.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M42hvrcVxzo/UchcARsokQI/AAAAAAAAAzw/8MnNgPsqOaQ/s1600/1830trousers_29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M42hvrcVxzo/UchcARsokQI/AAAAAAAAAzw/8MnNgPsqOaQ/s400/1830trousers_29.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Now here I'm kind of making it up on my own. Before putting in any linings, I thought I should have the waistband taken care of, so I basted in some linen, turned over the edge of the waistband, and sewed it all down.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Va4YDMStMCU/UchcAgzboXI/AAAAAAAAAzs/xhD6k4_BlCo/s1600/1830trousers_30.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Va4YDMStMCU/UchcAgzboXI/AAAAAAAAAzs/xhD6k4_BlCo/s400/1830trousers_30.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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You can see by this point there's a lot of basting going on. :)<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-v6XwBosddG8/UchcAkMrGRI/AAAAAAAAAz4/oiSIc3imjas/s1600/1830trousers_31.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-v6XwBosddG8/UchcAkMrGRI/AAAAAAAAAz4/oiSIc3imjas/s400/1830trousers_31.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Then I felled in the front lining. The pocketing is a little thin so you can see through it, but I don't think that matters too much.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--HlYk2N1jwI/UchcA5GAgnI/AAAAAAAAA0E/qItd80xk1VE/s1600/1830trousers_32.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--HlYk2N1jwI/UchcA5GAgnI/AAAAAAAAA0E/qItd80xk1VE/s400/1830trousers_32.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Finally I added the pocket itself. The curve is sewn in a French seam to enclose the edge, and the jettings are felled onto the pocketing.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EVZXOQQEVh4/UchcBFl7_LI/AAAAAAAAA0M/GKrmlh0EXr0/s1600/1830trousers_33.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EVZXOQQEVh4/UchcBFl7_LI/AAAAAAAAA0M/GKrmlh0EXr0/s400/1830trousers_33.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The front of the finished bearer, with only the basting holding the top of the pocketing on left in. I'm not sure how I'm going to finish the rest of the waistband lining, and I think I may add a waistband curtain over the pocketing later. Otherwise I'll just finish the top of the pocket to act as the lining through the side seam.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ee3Xj0v3IBM/UchcBFpjoII/AAAAAAAAA0U/dBXZpuos_Mw/s1600/1830trousers_34.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ee3Xj0v3IBM/UchcBFpjoII/AAAAAAAAA0U/dBXZpuos_Mw/s400/1830trousers_34.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />Andrewhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16521665413895628896noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6961676561087268976.post-54606043064201692362013-06-18T11:14:00.004-07:002013-06-18T11:15:15.527-07:001830s Broadfall Trousers<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/1997.109_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/1997.109_F.jpg" width="169" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Broadfall trousers ca. 1840<br />
<a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/80000601?img=0">The Metropolitan Museum of Art</a></td></tr>
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Unlike the modern trousers which have what is called a French fly, broadfall trousers have a flap covering the entire front, which unfastens and lowers to remove them. The trousers in the image to the right are made of cotton, but I've also seen period examples in linen and wool. I'm making mine out of brown wool serge, which will do nicely for cold weather.<br />
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I also discovered that broadfall trousers were still in common use for the Navy at least through the sixties, and are still referred to by <a href="http://blog.osmium.com/inspired-design/nautical-pants/">this site</a> as "nautical pants." (Which, actually, look really cool, and I'd totally wear those as modern casual trousers.)<br />
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I don't have a pattern for these - the Kannik's Korner pattern I used for my <a href="http://victoriantailor.blogspot.com/2012/02/regency-trousers.html">Regency trousers</a> are for a small fall (or half-fall), and the seat is a little loose for this period, so I decided to draft my own. I also don't have a full-on draft for broadfall trousers, so I drafted some French fly trousers based on an early draft, and then used the directions from the 1947 edition of <i>Tailoring: How to Make and Mend Trousers, Vests, and Coats</i> by The Master Designer in Chicago. Basically, all you do is use the fronts to draft the bearers (which go behind, and fasten the trousers closed at the waist), and then cut the fronts down by two inches.<br />
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I layed out the pattern on the cloth, added inlays, and cut it out.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ysT-WtzzYwE/UcCfk3F-rmI/AAAAAAAAAwE/sygKgpmQYwI/s1600/1830trousers_01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ysT-WtzzYwE/UcCfk3F-rmI/AAAAAAAAAwE/sygKgpmQYwI/s400/1830trousers_01.jpg" width="297" /></a></div>
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Step one: add crutch reinforcement. Just cross stitched some cotton pocketing in place.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HXSb4MkDEMU/UcCfkyj1e6I/AAAAAAAAAwM/IbuFpgT5tYc/s1600/1830trousers_02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="297" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HXSb4MkDEMU/UcCfkyj1e6I/AAAAAAAAAwM/IbuFpgT5tYc/s400/1830trousers_02.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Step two: serge (i.e. whipstitch) the raw edges of the trousers which will be left exposed. This took eight hours. Let me repeat:<br />
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This took eight hours.<br />
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Yup, a necessary evil. I see why sewing machines have a place in the workroom.<br />
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Here's a picture of one of the bearers, with the pocket mouth marked.<br />
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I thread-marked all the inlays and the back darts - which are called fish, because of how they are shaped in a flattened oval.<br />
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The first step of actual tailoring, now that everything is prepared. Sew up the back fish.<br />
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First I basted it in place...<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--0dYG5IMnek/UcCflhg2MLI/AAAAAAAAAwo/KoTik2Q6Yac/s1600/1830trousers_07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--0dYG5IMnek/UcCflhg2MLI/AAAAAAAAAwo/KoTik2Q6Yac/s400/1830trousers_07.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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...and sewed it up, and then ironed it flat. I could have cut the fabric out, but I wanted to leave it in case I need to alter it in the future.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-u3AR18-K2co/UcCfl5rIjgI/AAAAAAAAAxg/6pNpwiV1Wx0/s1600/1830trousers_08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-u3AR18-K2co/UcCfl5rIjgI/AAAAAAAAAxg/6pNpwiV1Wx0/s400/1830trousers_08.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Then I closed up the front, to about halfway down the crutch reinforcement. This felt strange, since usually this is where the fly goes. Keep in mind that this portion of the trousers is unchanged from a usual French fly-front, other than being 2" shorter than the waistband, so it just felt weird.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--d43t6fZ8zQ/UcCfmHZJOhI/AAAAAAAAAw4/xWLmsti4QMU/s1600/1830trousers_09.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--d43t6fZ8zQ/UcCfmHZJOhI/AAAAAAAAAw4/xWLmsti4QMU/s400/1830trousers_09.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here's how it looks with the seam pressed open.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZyEAzlVLJ-4/UcCfmMbAC-I/AAAAAAAAAxA/LJHOQt2GvQ0/s1600/1830trousers_10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZyEAzlVLJ-4/UcCfmMbAC-I/AAAAAAAAAxA/LJHOQt2GvQ0/s400/1830trousers_10.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Then I made a lining for the fall, from the same trouser fabric. In retrospect since this is a heavier fabric I probably could have made it from cotton or linen, but it'll work this way too. The darker part at the top of the lining is the selvedge.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tF9LlOoC2Eo/UcCfmZWQ90I/AAAAAAAAAxI/ReKlxTgOGDU/s1600/1830trousers_11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tF9LlOoC2Eo/UcCfmZWQ90I/AAAAAAAAAxI/ReKlxTgOGDU/s400/1830trousers_11.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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To define the edge and give support, I basted in a strip of linen, and then linen tape on top of it. Everything got stitched down so none of the stitches show on the front.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eeeR_OIYQw8/UcCfmjY9gsI/AAAAAAAAAxQ/RvnONGCYm3A/s1600/1830trousers_12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eeeR_OIYQw8/UcCfmjY9gsI/AAAAAAAAAxQ/RvnONGCYm3A/s400/1830trousers_12.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Cross stitching on the back of the linen strips, and felling and whip stitching on the linen tape. The back edge of the tape is just sewn to the strips, not to the cloth of the trousers.<br />
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Then the seam was turned over onto the tape, and basted down, then cross stitched in place.<br />
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The lining was basted in place.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--sPWIWywYx0/UcCfnbiT87I/AAAAAAAAAx8/phgpHSiYRn8/s1600/1830trousers_15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--sPWIWywYx0/UcCfnbiT87I/AAAAAAAAAx8/phgpHSiYRn8/s400/1830trousers_15.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I didn't turn the edge under the lining, so I used a thick felling stitch to keep the raw edges from fraying.<br />
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Finally, a row of side stitches was put in around the edge in front. This will eventually get four buttonholes, but I don't have the right colour buttonhole twist right now.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GQr1ljKuW_g/UcCfnvBfXgI/AAAAAAAAAx0/cQ_gG86um-I/s1600/1830trousers_17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GQr1ljKuW_g/UcCfnvBfXgI/AAAAAAAAAx0/cQ_gG86um-I/s400/1830trousers_17.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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A close-up of the side stitching.<br />
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<br />Andrewhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16521665413895628896noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6961676561087268976.post-44163022754730576692013-06-12T11:14:00.002-07:002013-06-12T11:14:52.078-07:00Linen buttonsI had a question based on my last post about how I made the linen buttons. Here's a little example to show how.<br />
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I start with a brass ring from <a href="http://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/brassrings.aspx">Burnley & Trowbridge</a>. They're supposed to be 3/8", but they're actually just a little bit bigger. No problem - just make sure to adjust your buttonholes accordingly. Also, adding the fabric will increase the size as well.<br />
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I cut a square of fabric 1" big.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Oj9IG-8g-a4/Ubi5biTOwBI/AAAAAAAAAvM/1gjvO9QGHbQ/s1600/linenbutton01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="297" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Oj9IG-8g-a4/Ubi5biTOwBI/AAAAAAAAAvM/1gjvO9QGHbQ/s400/linenbutton01.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Taking a stitch on each of two sides, draw the sides in. This is three stitches, in a sort of "S" shape to draw the sides in.<br />
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Repeat on the other two sides, using the same length of thread.<br />
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Now draw in the corners, two at a time as well, and take a few stitches through the whole mass to hold it together.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Lxta0iLh9VE/Ubi5cFu2VtI/AAAAAAAAAvQ/6X92zEJwHnQ/s1600/linenbutton04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Lxta0iLh9VE/Ubi5cFu2VtI/AAAAAAAAAvQ/6X92zEJwHnQ/s400/linenbutton04.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Backstitch around the inner edge of the button. This is still the same length of thread, which I haven't cut.<br />
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The finished button is about 1/2". There are two ways to attach it now. The first is to use the wad of fabric at the back as a shank, and sew through that to attach the button. I think it's more secure to stitch up through the button and make an "X" of stitches in the centre of the button as if it had four holes. There's no way that button's falling off in the wash.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aFTw8zYvjOU/Ubi5cYgpA4I/AAAAAAAAAvg/Edm_koaKHDg/s1600/linenbutton06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aFTw8zYvjOU/Ubi5cYgpA4I/AAAAAAAAAvg/Edm_koaKHDg/s400/linenbutton06.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br />Andrewhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16521665413895628896noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6961676561087268976.post-9858655861358926562013-06-04T10:54:00.000-07:002013-06-04T10:54:32.159-07:001830s Trowsers, or DrawersWomen and children, avert your eyes. I'm making underwear!<br />
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The directions for these are again straight out of the <i>Workwoman's Guide</i>. They fit just fine except that the waistband is a little short - there's a big gap in the back. It laces to fit so I suppose it's not really a problem, but it might be nice to eventually fit a new waistband so I don't have so much space in back.<br />
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As with most of the directions, these are measured in nails, and start with squares and rectangles. The first diagram shows how to turn a folded rectangle of fabric into the shape it needs to be. I did this by measuring and putting a pin at each of the relevant points. I then folded the fabric between the two pins - for instance, to get the angled line at BG (Fig 20) I put a pin at B, one at G, and folded the fabric between the two pinned points. After making a crease I then cut along the crease. Easy as pie.<br />
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One thing to note is that this section of the <i>Workwoman's Guide</i> describes these undergarments as either "trowsers" or "drawers." They seem to be somewhat interchangeable, except that the descriptions tend to call the ones for women and children trowsers, and the ones for men drawers. I'm not sure if that's standard or if it's just what the author felt like doing.<br />
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Below you can see the beginning of the shape taking place. I measured wrong and ended up with fabric just a little too narrow, so I added little corners onto the two points. Not a problem at all with the finished drawers:<br />
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The triangular piece is added on separately, and only attaches to the back half of each side. This is before I've cut the addition to size, and I'm simply lining up the angle:<br />
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And here I've attached it with a flat felled seam (all of the seams are 1/8" flat felled seams):<br />
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You can see now the two legs sewn together, and the two triangular extensions attached:<br />
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Finished! Seriously, these were pretty easy to put together so I don't have a lot of in-progress photos. Any open hem (the front fly area and the back gusset, for instance) are finished in a rolled hem. The bottoms of the legs have tape sewn into them for the linen drawstrings. I wove the back lacing on a lucet.<br />
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This is the gap in the back. It might show off a nice plumber's crack, but at least they'll stay on my waist. As you can see the backs are gathered into the waistband, so if I do re-work the waistband I'll have the spare fabric to make it longer.<br />
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A close-up of the linen buttons. The directions said to use "metal buttons" so I used 3/8" brass rings and covered them in linen. The front fly doesn't get any closure, but the overlap is enough to keep it shut. I hope.<br />
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<br />Andrewhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16521665413895628896noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6961676561087268976.post-83344189622342695152013-05-03T13:59:00.002-07:002013-05-03T13:59:25.581-07:001830s Shirt: Part 2I'd just like to make a quick note about thread. For this linen shirt I'm using linen thread (60/2 weight). I have 8 needles that I thread up at a time, which gives me an hour or so of sewing. Yeah, I'm slow, but that also includes matching up seam lines and things. I cut 8 threads, each about two feet long. I don't really measure, but line them up from the edge of the table to one of the lines of the boards. Once I've cut them, I wax each thread with the lump of beeswax you see below. I gather the threads and fold them in a piece of paper, and then iron the paper on about the wool setting. Not too hot, but enough to melt the wax into the thread. That makes the thread stronger, and keeps it from knotting up too much as I sew.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-B_lYOH2rxlQ/UYQg4hrQakI/AAAAAAAAArc/Th-ghOn6i-A/s1600/1830shirt_10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-B_lYOH2rxlQ/UYQg4hrQakI/AAAAAAAAArc/Th-ghOn6i-A/s320/1830shirt_10.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Then I thread each needle and stick it in my pincushion, ready to sew.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uxfwjz3eUnY/UYQg5KgejGI/AAAAAAAAArs/wIR7NGVZ9Ls/s1600/1830shirt_11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uxfwjz3eUnY/UYQg5KgejGI/AAAAAAAAArs/wIR7NGVZ9Ls/s320/1830shirt_11.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
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Here I'm preparing the sleeve for gathering. At first I was using white basting thread, but found it difficult to see the first row of stitching so I could match it with the second row.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n0b18aE4BdQ/UYQg4gicHLI/AAAAAAAAArQ/Y_78aWfMkQo/s1600/1830shirt_09.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n0b18aE4BdQ/UYQg4gicHLI/AAAAAAAAArQ/Y_78aWfMkQo/s320/1830shirt_09.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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So I switched to blue basting thread. Much easier.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Odd8VEZKQCE/UYQg5JKakdI/AAAAAAAAAro/slW6R4WNrgE/s1600/1830shirt_12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Odd8VEZKQCE/UYQg5JKakdI/AAAAAAAAAro/slW6R4WNrgE/s320/1830shirt_12.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Here's the cuff, all set in. For the record, the above pictures are of the sleeve head, not the cuff.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xNL2XjM2QKw/UYQg4nIaRmI/AAAAAAAAArU/B8bXOmqUOZs/s1600/1830shirt_08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xNL2XjM2QKw/UYQg4nIaRmI/AAAAAAAAArU/B8bXOmqUOZs/s320/1830shirt_08.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Check out that 1/8" flat felled seam - yeah!<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Cty5KDcOrhs/UYQg5rjvnuI/AAAAAAAAArk/v9lf3bbNRX8/s1600/1830shirt_13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Cty5KDcOrhs/UYQg5rjvnuI/AAAAAAAAArk/v9lf3bbNRX8/s320/1830shirt_13.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Finally, to finish the shirt I sewed in the bosom piece, also called the lining in <i>The Workwoman's Guide</i>. This piece was measured to exactly fit the sleeve hole, and when I fell stitch the fabric tends to creep. Because in my mind this is "just a shirt" and not a "tailoring" project I didn't take time to baste the lining in place before sewing it. So the ends didn't match up. No problem, I just folded over the bit of exposed seam at the bottom of the sleeve gusset and flat felled it.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FVmG60zAx08/UYQg6GAv2mI/AAAAAAAAAr4/0A-WAwBg9cs/s1600/1830shirt_14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FVmG60zAx08/UYQg6GAv2mI/AAAAAAAAAr4/0A-WAwBg9cs/s320/1830shirt_14.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Finished shirt! This falls to my knees, which the directions call for.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TpqP9Gnzb24/UYQg6WhP-NI/AAAAAAAAAr8/FlQNanPK5GA/s1600/1830shirt_15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TpqP9Gnzb24/UYQg6WhP-NI/AAAAAAAAAr8/FlQNanPK5GA/s320/1830shirt_15.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
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Since I already made my Regency shirt in a similar style, I called this one #2. You can see the embroidery in the above photo as an out-of-focus red smudge at the left hip gusset.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4kdwd34M_A0/UYQg6dxZvkI/AAAAAAAAAsI/d_5WUpHJSMs/s1600/1830shirt_16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4kdwd34M_A0/UYQg6dxZvkI/AAAAAAAAAsI/d_5WUpHJSMs/s320/1830shirt_16.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The collar and cuffs got buttons and buttonholes. The directions don't call for any particular kind of button, so I chose bone.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--Ep5FwuhXo0/UYQg6qJDRQI/AAAAAAAAAsA/pQnBbW_DBuo/s1600/1830shirt_17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--Ep5FwuhXo0/UYQg6qJDRQI/AAAAAAAAAsA/pQnBbW_DBuo/s320/1830shirt_17.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now, as for differences between this shirt using the directions from <i>The Workwoman's Guide</i>, and the Kannik's Korner pattern. They are very very very similar. I believe one of the sources for the Kannik's Korner pattern was an earlier edition of <i>The Workwoman's Guide</i>. The neck gussets in this version are single-sided, unlike the ones in the Kannik's Korner pattern. That means it leaves some exposed seams at the underside, which I cross-stitched as you can see below. This may become a problem, and I might have to insert a second gusset later if I notice it fraying. This is the only exposed seam on the shirt.<br />
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You can see the difference in collar height. Kannik's Korner pattern on the right.<br />
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The bosom lining in this pattern is much wider (again, Kannik's Korner on the right). I can see why it's referred to as a lining in <i>The Workwoman's Guide</i>.<br />
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Sorry I switched sides. This time the Kannik's Korner pattern is on the left. In that pattern the ends of the shirt match front and back. In <i>The Workwoman's Guide</i> the front is one nail shorter than the back.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PKTFvexopcg/UYQg7fG_FeI/AAAAAAAAAsc/ECMCJO0p35s/s1600/1830shirt_21.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PKTFvexopcg/UYQg7fG_FeI/AAAAAAAAAsc/ECMCJO0p35s/s320/1830shirt_21.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Those are the only real differences! The directions in <i>The Workwoman's Guide</i> are in a different order than the sewing directions from the Kannik's Korner pattern, but it doesn't really matter which you use. I referred to the Kannik's Korner directions from time to time because they're written more clearly, but they're basically the same.<br />
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Next time, drawers....Andrewhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16521665413895628896noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6961676561087268976.post-17704389250059758772013-04-23T08:46:00.001-07:002013-05-03T13:37:26.761-07:001830s Shirt: Part 1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://hearth.library.cornell.edu/cache/4/3/9/4396563/00000162.tifs.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://hearth.library.cornell.edu/cache/4/3/9/4396563/00000162.tifs.gif" width="286" /></a></div>
I've taken the directions for this shirt directly from <i>The workwoman's guide: containing instructions to the inexperienced in cutting out and completing those articles of wearing apparel, &c. which are ususally made at home : also, explanations on upholstery, straw-platting, bonnet-making, knitting, &c.</i> That's quite a mouthful for a title! I'll just call it <i>The Workwoman's Guide</i> from now on. This book was published in London in 1838. One thing to mention given that it's an English book: the terms "muslin" and "calico". These terms are exactly the opposite of what they are in American English, for some reason. In the U.S. muslin is a coarser, cheap fabric, and calico is a tightly-woven cotton, often with a small repeating print. In England, calico is the coarser, cheap fabric, and muslin is a tightly-woven cotton, often with a small repeating print. Just something to keep in mind, because <i>The Workwoman's Guide</i> refers to these fabrics.<br />
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The directions for shirts begin on page 138, <a href="http://hearth.library.cornell.edu/cgi/t/text/pageviewer-idx?c=hearth&cc=hearth&idno=4396563&node=4396563%3A3&frm=frameset&view=image&seq=163"><linked here></a>.<br />
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I've used the measurements for the "man's larger size" on page 139. If you look at the measurements you'll see Yds. and nls. Nls? Yes, there's a new unit of measurement here: nails. Apparently this was a unit of measurement for fabric, and it goes as follows: 4 nails = 1 quarter. 4 quarters = 1 yard. 5 quarters = 1 English ell, and 6 quarters = 1 French ell. Of course the French have to be different. :) That means that 1 nail = 2.25 inches. Simple, right? Well, since all of the measurements from <i>The Workwoman's Guide</i> are given in nails, I figured that instead of converting all the time I would just make a tape measure in nails. My tape is one ell (English) long.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mdHwpnHyPPM/UXai1sjfPrI/AAAAAAAAAqM/4v2pjwoxMVI/s1600/1830shirt_02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mdHwpnHyPPM/UXai1sjfPrI/AAAAAAAAAqM/4v2pjwoxMVI/s400/1830shirt_02.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Okay, back to the shirt. This pattern is very similar to the <a href="http://www.kannikskorner.com/patmen2.htm" target="_blank">Kannik's Korner 1790-1830 shirt</a> that I made before, but I wanted to make one according to the directions in <i>The Workwoman's Guide</i> this time. Some of the measurements are very similar, and some are a bit different, and I'll make a comparison when I've finished this shirt.<br />
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According to <i>The Workwoman's Guide</i> "Shirts for labouring men are generally made of the stout linen called shirting-linen." I chose a 5.3 oz linen from <a href="http://www.fabrics-store.com/first.php?goto=big_fabric&menu=f&menu=f&fabric_id=26">Fabrics-store.com</a>. Since all the pieces are rectangles or squares, I drew threads to make sure I cut in straight lines.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-G0w6lRJhNY4/UXai1iumIkI/AAAAAAAAArA/uNlgwI7774A/s1600/1830shirt_01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-G0w6lRJhNY4/UXai1iumIkI/AAAAAAAAArA/uNlgwI7774A/s400/1830shirt_01.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Modern fabric comes in widths much larger than period fabric, so even though the directions called for using fabric exactly 14 nails wide, I had to cut mine to size. However, given the width of the fabric I was able to get all of my pieces cut from exactly 2 yds, 2 nls of length.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wXuO0npn_Rk/UXai1h5ESOI/AAAAAAAAAqc/O0ysL1sAW9k/s1600/1830shirt_03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wXuO0npn_Rk/UXai1h5ESOI/AAAAAAAAAqc/O0ysL1sAW9k/s400/1830shirt_03.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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One thing I couldn't find in the pattern list was wrist gussets, which are mentioned in the <a href="http://hearth.library.cornell.edu/cgi/t/text/pageviewer-idx?c=hearth;cc=hearth;idno=4396563;node=4396563%3A3;frm=frameset;view=image;seq=166;page=root;size=s">directions for making up the shirts</a>. Since I think wrist gussets would probably just get in the way anyway, I didn't worry about them.<br />
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One thing I found with this shirt that was the same as the Kannik's Korner shirt I made was that the length of the shoulder straps is longer than necessary. I'm guessing that this is just so you can sew them on long and then trim them to the exact length which is better than having them too short:<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IuOBry-hb4U/UXai13CDekI/AAAAAAAAAqw/yS30uLp9JO4/s1600/1830shirt_04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IuOBry-hb4U/UXai13CDekI/AAAAAAAAAqw/yS30uLp9JO4/s400/1830shirt_04.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here I've gathered the very wide shirt body (18 nails, plus about 1 nail added with the neck gussets) into the collar (8 nails).<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JSl5qVyBT1c/UXai2CBjMoI/AAAAAAAAAqs/w5kGKKgCZfU/s1600/1830shirt_05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JSl5qVyBT1c/UXai2CBjMoI/AAAAAAAAAqs/w5kGKKgCZfU/s400/1830shirt_05.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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With the collar folded down this is starting to look like a shirt!<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-O7dy3p5XkX0/UXai2FYpcQI/AAAAAAAAAq4/k6SIZoNtdCE/s1600/1830shirt_06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-O7dy3p5XkX0/UXai2FYpcQI/AAAAAAAAAq4/k6SIZoNtdCE/s400/1830shirt_06.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I've begun to prepare the cuffs for sewing. In order to stitch in a straight line I've drawn threads as guides. You can see the border threads for seams, as well as guides for topstitching.<br />
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That's all I've got so far. Stay tuned for more!Andrewhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16521665413895628896noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6961676561087268976.post-11922223108219834112013-04-12T09:20:00.003-07:002013-05-03T13:37:40.936-07:00Creating an Impression: An 1830s Outfit, Part 2In the last post I introduced my visual mentor for this project, William Sidney Mount. Once again, I'm just going to be concentrating on his paintings from the mid-1830s, all of which depict "regular" folk, instead of the fashionable sort.<br />
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I'm taking all of my images from the page on Mount at <a href="http://www.the-athenaeum.org/art/list.php?m=a&s=du&aid=528" target="_blank">The Athenaeum</a>.<br />
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First of all, instead of putting all the full images up on this page, let me link to the ones I'll be examining:<br />
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<a href="http://www.the-athenaeum.org/art/display_image.php?id=45447" target="_blank">Long Island Farmer Husking Corn</a>, 1833-1834<br />
<a href="http://www.the-athenaeum.org/art/display_image.php?id=45451" target="_blank">The Breakdown</a>, 1835<br />
<a href="http://www.the-athenaeum.org/art/display_image.php?id=45449" target="_blank">The Sportsman's Last Visit</a>, 1835<br />
<a href="http://www.the-athenaeum.org/art/display_image.php?id=45453" target="_blank">Bargaining for a Horse</a>, 1835<br />
<a href="http://www.the-athenaeum.org/art/display_image.php?id=45457" target="_blank">Courtship</a>, 1836<br />
<a href="http://www.the-athenaeum.org/art/display_image.php?id=45459" target="_blank">Farmers Nooning</a>, 1836<br />
<a href="http://www.the-athenaeum.org/art/display_image.php?id=45463" target="_blank">The Long Story</a>, 1837<br />
<a href="http://www.the-athenaeum.org/art/display_image.php?id=45461" target="_blank">Raffling for the Goose</a>, 1837<br />
<a href="http://www.the-athenaeum.org/art/display_image.php?id=32294" target="_blank">The Painter's Triumph</a>, 1838<br />
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For a full outfit, I'll need a shirt, trousers, waistcoat, cravat, coat, hat, shoes, and topcoat. Let's start taking a look at what is shown.<br />
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Shirt<br />
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All white, except for the red shirt in The Painter's Triumph. I'll be making one based on the directions in <a href="http://hearth.library.cornell.edu/cgi/t/text/pageviewer-idx?c=hearth;cc=hearth;idno=4396563;node=4396563%3A4;frm=frameset;view=image;seq=162;page=root;size=s" target="_blank">The Workwoman's Guide</a> (the Guide also has directions on how to make <a href="http://hearth.library.cornell.edu/cgi/t/text/pageviewer-idx?c=hearth;cc=hearth;idno=4396563;node=4396563%3A4;frm=frameset;view=image;seq=69;page=root;size=s" target="_blank">men's drawers</a>, which I'll also use). The Guide suggests that "Shirts for labouring men are generally made of the stout linen called shirting-linen.... Shirts for men of lighter occupations are sometimes of calico, with linen collars and wristbands. Blue checks, unbleached, and striped calicoes, or prints, are used for that purpose." So for my shirt I'm going to use stout plain white linen. The pattern will be similar to the <a href="http://victoriantailor.blogspot.com/2012/03/regency-shirt-part-6-finished.html" target="_blank">Regency shirt</a> I have already made.<br />
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Trousers<br />
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These seem to come in four colours: buff, brown, grey, and black, some plain and some with pinstripes. Almost all of the examples in the paintings are fall-front trousers, also similar to the <a href="http://victoriantailor.blogspot.com/2012/02/regency-trousers.html" target="_blank">Regency trousers</a> I've made. There are a few exceptions: the eponymous Sportsman is wearing fly-fronts, and it looks as though the Long Island Farmer and the Painter are both wearing trousers with enough pleats in the front to think they are Cossack trousers (which also have fly-fronts). I'm going to go with the fall-front trousers, because even at the time W. D. F. Vincent's Cutter's Practical Guide was published in the 1890s it indicates that <a href="http://thecostumersmanifesto.com/index.php?title=File:03_024z.jpg" target="_blank">working class trousers</a> still fastened in the whole fall style.<br />
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Waistcoat<br />
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One interesting thing I noticed is that a good proportion of the backs of the waistcoats shown are red. Even the grey-backed one in Farmer's Nooning looks as though it is lined in red where the lining shows at the bottom and armscye. They tie to fit, instead of buckling, and most are single-breasted notch-collared. The range of colours is greater, but most are brown or black, then some buff and cream, and one red (that Sportsman is throwing things off, with his red double-breasted waistcoat).<br />
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Cravat<br />
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Red is the dominating colour here, with black a close second. White and yellow also appear. Some have tied the ends into a bow, and some leave them hanging loose. The Long Island Farmer wears a small cravat, with very short ends.<br />
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Coat<br />
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It seems, through these paintings, that when you're not hot enough to wear no coat at all, you're so cold that you wear a heavy coat with a fur or fleece collar. Seriously, these look like some warm coats. Of course, some are probably topcoats. Black or buff frock coats seem to be the norm, with black cutaway coats being worn by the fancier gentleman in the Sportsman's Last Visit (poor Sportsman looks like he's not fancy enough to get the girl), the Painter, and the fellow who looks like he's having trouble staying upright in his chair in The Breakdown. The cut looks similar to my <a href="http://victoriantailor.blogspot.com/2013/03/frock-coat-4-finished.html" target="_blank">linen frock coat</a>, but these are definitely all wool.<br />
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Hat<br />
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I'm enamoured of the battered and bashed top hats in these paintings. Even though there are other hats depicted (there's a good range of hats in the Raffle) I'm going to do a top hat and beat the heck out of it.<br />
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Shoes<br />
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All black leather, the best picture is from Farmers Nooning. A low boot, very similar to a <a href="http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonline/producti_SF7715_1_40000000001_-1" target="_blank">modern dress boot</a>. I'm not sure what I'll do here to be the most period correct. I know there are shoes for reenactors out there, but I might also get away with a modern boot.<br />
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Topcoat<br />
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Like I said before, it looks as though there are a lot of topcoats here. There's also a cloak or two, or perhaps an Ulster with a cape.Fur or fleece collars makes them warmer, and the one in The Long Story nicely shows the pad stitching under the collar. Most of the coats are buff, with a brown double-breasted coat with frogs in Raffling for the Goose (along with a red-lined green cloak or Ulster). The coat in Courtship has nice contrast piping on it, and there's a dark cloak in The Long Story. I'll probably go with a buff wool topcoat with fleece on the collar.<br />
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Well! That was a lot of words without too many pictures on my part, but I hope you had fun referring to the paintings while I rambled on. Next post will have me actually making something, I promise!Andrewhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16521665413895628896noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6961676561087268976.post-56974538948409997362013-04-11T13:49:00.001-07:002013-05-03T13:37:49.071-07:00Creating an Impression: An 1830s Outfit<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Up until now I've mostly focused on the later part of the Victorian era, tending toward the '80s and '90s. However, in about a year (and yes, apparently you need to book a spot that far in advance) I will be attending a dinner cook-along at Old Sturbridge Village with my wife, my sister, and brother-in-law. I thought it would be a fun idea to dress up for it.<br />
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If you aren't familiar with <a href="http://osv.org/" target="_blank">Old Sturbridge Village</a>, it's a living history museum in central Massachusetts. The village consists of 40 or so restored buildings, and costumed interpreters performing the crafts and daily activities of the early 19th century. Even though the web site states that the range of the village is 1790-1840, it seems that most of the clothing is from the mid- to late-1830s (I know that one of the primary sources for clothing is the 1838 <a href="http://hearth.library.cornell.edu/cgi/t/text/pageviewer-idx?c=hearth;cc=hearth;rgn=full%20text;idno=4396563;didno=4396563;view=image;seq=0001;node=4396563%3A1" target="_blank">Workwoman's Guide</a>).<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KDdD7t_TBVQ/UWcbS5WpSuI/AAAAAAAAApI/b0843qTxlWk/s1600/Dandys_1830.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KDdD7t_TBVQ/UWcbS5WpSuI/AAAAAAAAApI/b0843qTxlWk/s200/Dandys_1830.jpg" width="126" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dandys, 1830<br />
from <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Dandys_1830.jpg" target="_blank">Wikipedia Commons</a></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SQs6NYy5kGQ/UWcb5RJaiiI/AAAAAAAAApQ/Vbs5qoB8Xko/s1600/Men's_fashion_silhouette_of_1837.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SQs6NYy5kGQ/UWcb5RJaiiI/AAAAAAAAApQ/Vbs5qoB8Xko/s200/Men's_fashion_silhouette_of_1837.jpg" width="141" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Men's fashion, 1837<br />
from <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Men%27s_fashion_silhouette_of_1837.jpg" target="_blank">Wikipedia Commons</a></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UMJcicrqOEg/UWcc-ZBPdII/AAAAAAAAApY/KsC5zrET99I/s1600/AC1993_127_1-6d107.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UMJcicrqOEg/UWcc-ZBPdII/AAAAAAAAApY/KsC5zrET99I/s200/AC1993_127_1-6d107.jpg" width="130" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jacket and trousers, 1825-1830<br />
from <a href="http://www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr/?id_article=3139&id_document=6801&page=portfolio" target="_blank">Les Arts Decoratifs</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-R85GJehdPUk/UWcdqJ99LcI/AAAAAAAAApg/z-Mk6siqjHM/s1600/ci1981.210.4.R.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-R85GJehdPUk/UWcdqJ99LcI/AAAAAAAAApg/z-Mk6siqjHM/s200/ci1981.210.4.R.jpg" width="149" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cossack trousers, 1833<br />
from <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/80004410?img=0" target="_blank">The Metropolitan Museum of Art</a></td></tr>
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The problem with researching clothes from the 1830s is that most of what you can find (at least online) for pictures are of fashion prints and clothes from museums. These are great if you want to recreate a dandy or gentleman, but if you want someone who will fit in at a farming village - that is, something beyond the wasp-waisted (and probably corseted) man in Cossack trousers with stirrups, you need to look a little further. I discovered the paintings of William Sidney Mount.<br />
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Mount lived from 1807 to 1868, and became famous for depicting scenes of everyday life. In particular to my interests, many of those paintings are from the mid-'30s. Now that's what I'm talking about! Next time I'll go over some specific points about the outfits, and make a list of what I'd like to make for this outfit, in a running series. Until then, I'll leave you with some pictures.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0gjVog2xhcE/UWcgNGSWlCI/AAAAAAAAApo/wPglRTOxVL8/s1600/mount_thebreakdown.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="261" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0gjVog2xhcE/UWcgNGSWlCI/AAAAAAAAApo/wPglRTOxVL8/s320/mount_thebreakdown.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Breakdown<br />
William Sidney Mount, 1835<br />
from <a href="http://www.the-athenaeum.org/art/detail.php?ID=21891" target="_blank">The Athenaeum</a></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WyDvQUQOr1c/UWcgqZTOiKI/AAAAAAAAAp0/8PXRwzIQJZA/s1600/mount_farmersnooning.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="272" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WyDvQUQOr1c/UWcgqZTOiKI/AAAAAAAAAp0/8PXRwzIQJZA/s320/mount_farmersnooning.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Farmers Nooning<br />
William Sidney Mount, 1836<br />
from <a href="http://www.the-athenaeum.org/art/detail.php?ID=15774" target="_blank">The Athenaeum</a></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gnt24SvJMDA/UWchMb5ynHI/AAAAAAAAAp4/W1yPm-7fN1k/s1600/mount_rafflingforthegoose.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="237" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gnt24SvJMDA/UWchMb5ynHI/AAAAAAAAAp4/W1yPm-7fN1k/s320/mount_rafflingforthegoose.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Raffling for the Goose<br />
William Sidney Mount, 1837<br />
from <a href="http://www.the-athenaeum.org/art/detail.php?ID=21894" target="_blank">The Athenaeum</a></td></tr>
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Andrewhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16521665413895628896noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6961676561087268976.post-65625533454961629402013-04-03T12:56:00.000-07:002013-04-03T12:56:36.013-07:00Award Night<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-INhbmkM5TyU/UVxJH7_9jcI/AAAAAAAAAo4/_9_OHqJ6rZ4/s1600/very-inspiring-blogger-award.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="204" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-INhbmkM5TyU/UVxJH7_9jcI/AAAAAAAAAo4/_9_OHqJ6rZ4/s320/very-inspiring-blogger-award.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Well I'll be! I'll have to admit that until my last post I wasn't even sure if anyone was actually reading my blog, so now I'm even more flattered to receive the Very Inspiring Blogger Award nomination from <a href="http://i-like-historical-clothing.blogspot.nl/" target="_blank">Marijke</a>. She commented on one of my first posts, so I know she's been following along for a while.<br />
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In order to accept this award, there are some rules:<br />
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<li>Display the award and link back to the person who nominated you.</li>
<li>State 7 facts about yourself.</li>
<li>Nominate 15 bloggers for the award.</li>
<li>Notify the winners.</li>
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I guess I'm a little confused about the last one. Does that mean notify the 15 bloggers who you've nominated? I'll go with that.<br />
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<b>Seven Facts About Myself</b><br />
<ol>
<li>I'm a cocktail geek (some might say snob). My favourite cocktail is the old fashioned, but the old fashioned old fashioned, not the horrible thing that developed in the 1950's. I'm talking about the one that appeared in 1862 in the <a href="http://www.artofdrink.com/jerry-thomas/" target="_blank">first bartender's guide ever</a>, written by Jerry Thomas: sugar, bitters, and whiskey, over ice, with a twist of lemon. No muddled fruit. No soda water. Just sugar, bitters, and whiskey. Yum.</li>
<li>I've hiked all 2,100 miles of the Appalachian Trail, all 2,600 miles of the Pacific Crest Trail, and over 2,000 miles of the Continental Divide Trail. That's a total of a year and a half of living outdoors every day, sleeping either in a tent or under the stars.</li>
<li>I wore a kilt for three years, eschewing trousers.</li>
<li>Although I reside in Boston, MA, I've lived in England (W. Yorkshire) and France (Alpes-Maritimes and Ariège) as well as spending two months traveling around Ireland.</li>
<li>My wedding was <a href="http://kellydavidson.printroom.com/GentryAndrewWedding" target="_blank">steampunk-themed</a> (though if you read this blog you probably already know that).</li>
<li>I've been brewing beer for nine years, and although I mostly concentrate on English session styles, my favourite, and the one I've brewed the most, is a black pepper saison.</li>
<li>I sew things other than Victorian outfits. I should probably start a side blog for my modern clothing....</li>
</ol>
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<b>Nominate 15 Bloggers for the Award</b><br />
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Blogs by men, detailing men's sewing and tailoring:<br />
<ol>
<li><a href="http://drunktailor.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Drunktailor</a> - With a blog change it's hard to keep up with the Drunk Tailor! But I like his goal of producing clothing that the masses would have worn, not the elite.</li>
<li><a href="http://passionforthepast.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Passion for the Past</a> - Ken participates in living history in Michigan, concentrating on the Civil War era. I like that he and most of his family portrays civilians. There are plenty of military reenactors.</li>
<li><a href="http://jimsfortheloveofhistory.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">For the Love of History</a> - Jim not only makes reproduction clothing based on the Gold Rush era of California, but also recreates many of the personal objects of the people of that time. I'm in awe of his skills.</li>
<li><a href="http://williamsclothiers.com/notebook/" target="_blank">Williams Clothiers</a> - Although the site is a storefront for James Williams' period tailoring service, he also makes posts about drafting patterns and other costuming thoughts, and the gallery is drool-worthy. I've never seen so many photos of pad stitching in one place.</li>
<li><a href="http://malepatternboldness.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Male Pattern Boldness</a> - What can I say about Peter that hasn't been said already? A sewing ambassador.</li>
<li>T<a href="http://mainelydadswintercoat.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">he Japanese Pattern Challenge</a> - A blog started to publicly learn to sew, Mainelydad has long since done so, and has raised the bar to try new and exciting things. There are also one or two Victorian-style projects on his site.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.taylortailor.com/" target="_blank">TaylorTailor</a> - Taylor wanted a pair of jeans, so he learned to sew, then he learned to draft his own patterns, and then he opened a shop selling hard-to-source denim and jeans-related hardware. It's great to see someone who isn't afraid to jump in and figure something out for himself.</li>
<li><a href="http://seejasonsew.tumblr.com/" target="_blank">See Jason Sew</a> - I only wish we could see Jason sew more often - he doesn't update often, but when he does it's worth it.</li>
<li><a href="http://roryduffy.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Rory Duffy Handcraft Tailor</a> - It's no longer amateur hour, folks. Rory is a Savile Row-trained tailor, and is gracious enough to let us look at photos of his work and process.</li>
<li><a href="http://davidetaub.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Davide Taub</a> - Another professional, Davide works in Savile Row. His cutting style is non-traditional to say the least, but it pays homage to the past, and you can see the early 19th century in many of his pieces. I also love the secret embellishments he puts under the lapels of many of his jackets and coats.</li>
</ol>
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Other great costuming blogs, even if they aren't about men's clothing. :)</div>
<div>
<ol start="11">
<li><a href="http://mantuadiary.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Diary of a Mantua Maker</a> - All of ColeV's clothing is amazing, but look at that steampunk outfit! <a href="http://mantuadiary.blogspot.com/2012/12/steampunk-1.html" target="_blank">Just look at it!</a></li>
<li><a href="http://thegoldenscissors.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">At the Sign of the Golden Scissors</a> - Hallie Larkin knows what she's talking about when it comes to 18th century clothing. It's a little before my preferred time, but I keep going back to learn more.</li>
<li><a href="http://augustintytar.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Before the Automobile</a> - I'm just in awe here. Augustintytär doesn't just make beautiful clothing and then take a couple pictures of it - you get to scroll through pages and pages of photos with the Finnish countryside as the backdrop.</li>
<li><a href="http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">The Fashionable Past</a> - With all the great sites on costuming for women in the 19th century out there, this is one I keep coming back to. This recent <a href="http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/2012/12/a-robe-langlaise-or-en-fourreau-gown_5550.html" target="_blank">robe a l'anglaise series</a> is one of my favourites.</li>
<li><a href="http://historicalsewing.com/" target="_blank">19th Century Costuming</a> - or HistoricalSewing.com - I'm not sure which title Jennifer Rosbrugh likes to use. Whichever one it is, this blog is packed full of tips and information, as well as photos of her clothing.</li>
</ol>
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That took a long time to write up! Think of all the tailoring I could be getting done!</div>
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Andrewhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16521665413895628896noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6961676561087268976.post-14151820440557271022013-03-24T19:53:00.003-07:002013-03-24T19:53:50.652-07:00Frock Coat 4: Finished<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Finally, I'm posting about the finished frock coat! I actually finished a while ago, but what with other projects I'm working on (non-Victorian clothing) I haven't gotten around to posting these or putting on the finished frock coat for a photograph.</div>
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Here I'm sewing the collar front to the collar back (the back has all the basting showing below. The stitch pulls the edges together into one piece, as you can see. The front slightly overlaps the back, which the stitch then sort of wraps down to join. Does that make sense?</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n5kWlZ9eqGw/UU-4iw_O14I/AAAAAAAAAnk/r_ovezS5Zmo/s1600/fc34_collar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n5kWlZ9eqGw/UU-4iw_O14I/AAAAAAAAAnk/r_ovezS5Zmo/s400/fc34_collar.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The finished collar, and revers. The draft I used had a dart to shape the revers, which I'm not entirely sure about, but you can see it where it meets the collar below.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xEo2pdVfmVA/UU-4i2SXbrI/AAAAAAAAAn0/RQlWRgc4794/s1600/fc35_lapels.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xEo2pdVfmVA/UU-4i2SXbrI/AAAAAAAAAn0/RQlWRgc4794/s400/fc35_lapels.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The sleeve joining the body at the shoulder. There are no shoulder pads in this coat, but there are sleeve heads. I think this is a nice smooth join, without too much fuss. It was a lot of fuss to make it work.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gLEf3sAnwLQ/UU-4jLKqQ2I/AAAAAAAAAno/VBU0gTD3vPI/s1600/fc36_shoulder.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gLEf3sAnwLQ/UU-4jLKqQ2I/AAAAAAAAAno/VBU0gTD3vPI/s400/fc36_shoulder.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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The waist buttonhole is worked into the seam between the body and the skirt. There are bar tacks (which you can't see, apparently) strengthening the ends of the buttonhole.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-H4IGBtNOX9o/UU-4jdT4PVI/AAAAAAAAAns/fVYqURvtYHs/s1600/fc37_seam_buttonhole.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-H4IGBtNOX9o/UU-4jdT4PVI/AAAAAAAAAns/fVYqURvtYHs/s400/fc37_seam_buttonhole.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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Finishing a buttonhole. You can see the length of four-cord I made of twisted buttonhole silk. Just four strands of thread twisted until they twist themselves into a rope.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-skicgCs9ZSQ/UU-4jtRRtAI/AAAAAAAAAnw/fhm34p3SJo4/s1600/fc38_buttonhole1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-skicgCs9ZSQ/UU-4jtRRtAI/AAAAAAAAAnw/fhm34p3SJo4/s400/fc38_buttonhole1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The finished buttonhole.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aYZdI2LwyVQ/UU-4j8-Q1SI/AAAAAAAAAn4/5kzOQkwOkE0/s1600/fc39_buttonhole2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aYZdI2LwyVQ/UU-4j8-Q1SI/AAAAAAAAAn4/5kzOQkwOkE0/s400/fc39_buttonhole2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I've basted the buttonhole closed to work on the next one. I'll leave this basting in place until I've pressed the fronts one last time.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GgjASjZAC3o/UU-4keuLMBI/AAAAAAAAAoI/8lYli3NQoxQ/s1600/fc40_buttonhole3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GgjASjZAC3o/UU-4keuLMBI/AAAAAAAAAoI/8lYli3NQoxQ/s400/fc40_buttonhole3.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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All dressed up. You've seen me make this shirt, trousers, waistcoat, and frock coat.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rDcinJNAdyc/UU-4kXSnbPI/AAAAAAAAAoE/AfBcpcwJqHw/s1600/fc41_outfit1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rDcinJNAdyc/UU-4kXSnbPI/AAAAAAAAAoE/AfBcpcwJqHw/s400/fc41_outfit1.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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The trousers need a serious pressing. Oops.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zHV87a0nYRM/UU-4kbaYZKI/AAAAAAAAAoA/IUg_b5IdFkQ/s1600/fc42_outfit2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zHV87a0nYRM/UU-4kbaYZKI/AAAAAAAAAoA/IUg_b5IdFkQ/s400/fc42_outfit2.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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I'm not sure what's going on with the shirt collar here. The frock coat looks a little bunchy too, but that's because it isn't buttoned up. When it's buttoned it's a perfect fit - a true body coat.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aDA3JODP32k/UU-4k_scGSI/AAAAAAAAAoM/7ac7enB0q5A/s1600/fc43_outfit3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aDA3JODP32k/UU-4k_scGSI/AAAAAAAAAoM/7ac7enB0q5A/s400/fc43_outfit3.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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<br />Andrewhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16521665413895628896noreply@blogger.com16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6961676561087268976.post-70637748056252583102013-02-10T15:38:00.005-08:002013-02-10T15:38:59.433-08:00Frock Coat 3: Sleeves<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I want to mention first of all that I suddenly realised that I've been doing it all wrong! Well, not that bad, but when I got to the part of The Victorian Tailor that talked about the sleeves and collar, it mentioned something about now sewing the backs together. All this time I should have had the coat in two halves, unconnected. That certainly would have made sewing in the lining easier around the tails and inside. Ah well, I don't think it will be too bad.<br />
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Anyway, I also noticed that I don't have any photos of the finished sleeve, but I'll save the "big reveal" for my next post.<br />
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These sleeves will have a "false cuff." Basically this is instead of having a longer sleeve that turns up - instead it has an additional cuff added to the bottom. You'll see this style a lot on military coats, where the false cuff is a different colour, and has rank bars or decorative braid on it. In this case it will be plain, and I don't think I'm going to add buttons (not because I'm lazy, but because this is more of a casual frock coat - if such a thing exists - and I think a plain sleeve will be better).<br />
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The first step - sewing up the short sides of the sleeves. The part marked out in chalk at the bottom is just an insert which will extend into the false cuff:<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aOZzAYxVaEc/URgptr5A2jI/AAAAAAAAAlo/d0USWsk2KOw/s1600/fc21_sleeve.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aOZzAYxVaEc/URgptr5A2jI/AAAAAAAAAlo/d0USWsk2KOw/s400/fc21_sleeve.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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Next I added the false cuff. I think I should have used a pressing cloth when I pressed it, as the fabric discoloured a little bit, but when I've finished the coat I'll see if I can steam that back to normal. Anyway, you can see that there is no seam along the front side of the cuff, and it will just have one in the back.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9SLlTs1PHQw/URgptoIjN_I/AAAAAAAAAls/97uWrjdk-gA/s1600/fc23_sleeve.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9SLlTs1PHQw/URgptoIjN_I/AAAAAAAAAls/97uWrjdk-gA/s400/fc23_sleeve.jpg" width="298" /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m_qnFCz7k5U/URgptSecwfI/AAAAAAAAAlk/oJEQ7UCytfo/s1600/fc22_sleeve.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m_qnFCz7k5U/URgptSecwfI/AAAAAAAAAlk/oJEQ7UCytfo/s400/fc22_sleeve.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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Then I added some bias interlining to keep the cuff in shape. This is pad stitched along the side seams, and following the fold line chalked in. At the top it's cross stitched to the inlay of the sleeve.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yuxY39L7AQw/URgptxNBB8I/AAAAAAAAAlw/tdAgVNd01gI/s1600/fc24_sleeve.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yuxY39L7AQw/URgptxNBB8I/AAAAAAAAAlw/tdAgVNd01gI/s400/fc24_sleeve.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The cuff is hemmed up at the fold line (a healthy 2" in this case) and is cross stitched to the interlining.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UDem0AKVdYU/URgptyewTWI/AAAAAAAAAl0/AfED2puFMEE/s1600/fc25_sleeve.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UDem0AKVdYU/URgptyewTWI/AAAAAAAAAl0/AfED2puFMEE/s400/fc25_sleeve.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here's what it looks like now from the right side.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8aR3sP3y8hw/URgpuLq5R8I/AAAAAAAAAl8/Cifs68iRROM/s1600/fc26_sleeve.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8aR3sP3y8hw/URgpuLq5R8I/AAAAAAAAAl8/Cifs68iRROM/s400/fc26_sleeve.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I seamed along the long sides, clipped it at the cuff line, and pressed it open. At the cuff I pressed it to the side so it will look as if it will open. This is not a functioning ("surgeon's") cuff, so don't need to worry about anything but cross stitching the seam in place.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-22CSSTLmM6A/URgpveBsLnI/AAAAAAAAAmU/NPGeHAqrxHw/s1600/fc27_sleeve.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-22CSSTLmM6A/URgpveBsLnI/AAAAAAAAAmU/NPGeHAqrxHw/s400/fc27_sleeve.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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Here's what the opening looks like now. I've felled the seam allowance to the cuff on the top side so it looks like one piece.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-E-Fgq_LPyFg/URgpufgV-HI/AAAAAAAAAmI/5Z49GoWWoLQ/s1600/fc28_sleeve.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-E-Fgq_LPyFg/URgpufgV-HI/AAAAAAAAAmI/5Z49GoWWoLQ/s400/fc28_sleeve.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I sewed together the sleeve lining. This is the only part of the coat where I've used a sewing machine. With both the sleeve and lining inside out, I matched the sides together and basted the seam allowances together. This will keep the lining from twisting inside the sleeve.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tbRk3oyeIG4/URgpuqTz4PI/AAAAAAAAAmE/f7hnUWNXEt0/s1600/fc29_sleeve.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tbRk3oyeIG4/URgpuqTz4PI/AAAAAAAAAmE/f7hnUWNXEt0/s400/fc29_sleeve.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Then the sleeve and lining are turned right side out. Just reach through, grab both ends together, and pull. Note that the lining extends a little bit out of the cuff. It needs this extra length to sew properly.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HFHt5CNYnTs/URgpvP7gUjI/AAAAAAAAAmQ/_I5yE4xFwfA/s1600/fc30_sleeve.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HFHt5CNYnTs/URgpvP7gUjI/AAAAAAAAAmQ/_I5yE4xFwfA/s400/fc30_sleeve.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I hope this picture makes sense. The sleeve is right side out, but I've turned the cuff inside out to sew the lining down. The lining is folded back under itself to about 1" from the end of the cuff, then basted in place. Then I turned down the lining along the basting line (this is why you need the extra fabric, because you're actually sewing fairly far back along the cuff), and felled in place. This will then fold back down, so the lining has a little bit of give at the end of the cuff.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YSNAs8pDXes/URgpvQ0iPTI/AAAAAAAAAmY/kcxBFbO2RX8/s1600/fc31_sleeve.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YSNAs8pDXes/URgpvQ0iPTI/AAAAAAAAAmY/kcxBFbO2RX8/s400/fc31_sleeve.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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This is what I'm talking about. The lining folds back at the end of the cuff and is sewn down underneath.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Z2pgQLQ1PbA/URgpvUAfAJI/AAAAAAAAAmg/mWk0QzN2dnA/s1600/fc32_sleeve.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Z2pgQLQ1PbA/URgpvUAfAJI/AAAAAAAAAmg/mWk0QzN2dnA/s400/fc32_sleeve.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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Now the sleeve is ready to be attached to the body. This is fiddly, and involves easing the sleeve head so it isn't too poofy, and doesn't have pleats. I didn't take any pictures, because I was futzing around with pins and basting thread, trying to get it right. Here's a picture, after the sleeve is sewn into the armscye, of the sleeve head. It's sewn into the seam allowance, facing down the sleeve (which is inside out at the moment). I made this sleeve head by folding a piece of handkerchief-weight linen around a sheet of linen pile. You know where I got the linen pile? From my dryer's lint trap after pre-washing a couple yards of white linen. I carefully peeled it off the trap, and kept it as a sheet. Now I have linen padding! The sleeve head will keep the roll of the sleeve smooth as it transitions from shoulder down to sleeve.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WT7KRXkxmTM/URgpvqzYPNI/AAAAAAAAAmc/CP8W2XHTbLg/s1600/fc33_sleeve.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WT7KRXkxmTM/URgpvqzYPNI/AAAAAAAAAmc/CP8W2XHTbLg/s400/fc33_sleeve.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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That's all for now - I'm getting close to finishing!Andrewhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16521665413895628896noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6961676561087268976.post-45034625074122689952013-01-29T12:55:00.001-08:002013-01-29T12:55:05.320-08:00Frock Coat 2: The Guts<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-j_T3ExiEsN8/UQgv8ZavYWI/AAAAAAAAAjk/2GsRvz18MoI/s1600/fc08_front_canvas_basted.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-j_T3ExiEsN8/UQgv8ZavYWI/AAAAAAAAAjk/2GsRvz18MoI/s400/fc08_front_canvas_basted.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
When I last left you, I had finished the collar of the frock coat. I won't come back to the collar for a long time, so I really did it out of order, but that's all right. The next thing I did was baste the finished canvas to the coat fronts, and pad stitch the revers (also known as the lapel).<br />
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Here you can see (and you can click for larger images) the pad stitching which lends the revers its shape. I haven't ironed it, but it maintains a fairly sharp crease, and also curls back toward the point of the revers. Underneath you can see the dart that gives the chest some shape, and a few dimples where the pad stitching is.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DqJ1x6dBQwc/UQgv8SyE4DI/AAAAAAAAAjw/stKn3SCn4d8/s1600/fc09_revers_padstitch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DqJ1x6dBQwc/UQgv8SyE4DI/AAAAAAAAAjw/stKn3SCn4d8/s320/fc09_revers_padstitch.jpg" width="239" /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AAs1c4DLUJ4/UQgv8S4DzVI/AAAAAAAAAjo/p44aMao9Ti4/s1600/fc10_revers_padstitch2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AAs1c4DLUJ4/UQgv8S4DzVI/AAAAAAAAAjo/p44aMao9Ti4/s320/fc10_revers_padstitch2.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
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Underneath the armscye I've added a little padding. This is batting covered by thin linen which I've pad stitched to the fabric. This will fill out the little hollow under the arm.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FnIs0RiTsz0/UQgv8rJ1WmI/AAAAAAAAAjs/IAg5auUeeHY/s1600/fc11_scye_padding.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FnIs0RiTsz0/UQgv8rJ1WmI/AAAAAAAAAjs/IAg5auUeeHY/s400/fc11_scye_padding.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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A final picture of the completed interior of the front of the coat.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lUwKcGAZdB8/UQgv9FCnWVI/AAAAAAAAAj0/57pIUYHvQbs/s1600/fc12_front_guts.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lUwKcGAZdB8/UQgv9FCnWVI/AAAAAAAAAj0/57pIUYHvQbs/s400/fc12_front_guts.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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Now I've attached the back and skirts, and added a strip of linen at the bottom hem to help keep the coat draping properly.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0gb8ZAz8AEo/UQgv9DdY2zI/AAAAAAAAAj4/GStB0FLojww/s1600/fc13_full_guts.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0gb8ZAz8AEo/UQgv9DdY2zI/AAAAAAAAAj4/GStB0FLojww/s400/fc13_full_guts.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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In addition to the linen strip, I've also added a few lead weights. This is a very soft linen coat fabric, and the weights will help it hang properly.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q77uYHJxNrU/UQgv9SoMRSI/AAAAAAAAAj8/mmB7DkGGR28/s1600/fc14_tail_weights.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q77uYHJxNrU/UQgv9SoMRSI/AAAAAAAAAj8/mmB7DkGGR28/s400/fc14_tail_weights.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I've begun turning in the fronts in anticipation of adding the facings. You can see here an additional piece of linen added to help support the buttons along the front edge.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-smORW_f7gDo/UQgv9gcqJfI/AAAAAAAAAkM/EuNHKq2CS50/s1600/fc15_button_stand.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-smORW_f7gDo/UQgv9gcqJfI/AAAAAAAAAkM/EuNHKq2CS50/s400/fc15_button_stand.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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Now to add some pockets. There are no side or front pockets on this coat, to maintain the proper form, but instead it has two pockets hidden in the tails. I've cut the lining for the tails in two pieces, and made pocket shapes.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zo2Ir_mkCOs/UQgv9nncn4I/AAAAAAAAAkE/cF-oh2FUneQ/s1600/fc16_tail_pockets.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zo2Ir_mkCOs/UQgv9nncn4I/AAAAAAAAAkE/cF-oh2FUneQ/s400/fc16_tail_pockets.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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In retrospect, I should have cut the pockets to be shaped within the red dotted lines - this would have helped them hang straight, since they would have been supported by the waist seam.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EKPHt44kw-k/UQgv9wsDfWI/AAAAAAAAAkI/LAjBzJSYjMw/s1600/fc17_tail_pockets2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EKPHt44kw-k/UQgv9wsDfWI/AAAAAAAAAkI/LAjBzJSYjMw/s400/fc17_tail_pockets2.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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The finished pocket. It may be hard to see, but I've added reinforcement at the corners of the pocket opening so it doesn't rip open.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dWz0yGSTVn0/UQgv-ct47XI/AAAAAAAAAkQ/7EMEFowzcNs/s1600/fc18_tail_pockets3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dWz0yGSTVn0/UQgv-ct47XI/AAAAAAAAAkQ/7EMEFowzcNs/s400/fc18_tail_pockets3.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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A closer look at the pocket.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y0JizqqnRoI/UQgv-WJE-HI/AAAAAAAAAkU/aPv-VDZ-TeE/s1600/fc19_tail_pockets4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y0JizqqnRoI/UQgv-WJE-HI/AAAAAAAAAkU/aPv-VDZ-TeE/s400/fc19_tail_pockets4.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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Completed skirt lining. On this side the pocket is at the top left of the lining, by the top of the back vent opening.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cY8_h88Y0nE/UQgv-qhfwKI/AAAAAAAAAkY/4msw-YYZ4qU/s1600/fc20_tail_lining.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cY8_h88Y0nE/UQgv-qhfwKI/AAAAAAAAAkY/4msw-YYZ4qU/s320/fc20_tail_lining.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />Andrewhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16521665413895628896noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6961676561087268976.post-91880737417078586402013-01-10T13:55:00.000-08:002013-01-10T13:55:42.268-08:00Frock Coat 1: Drafting and Canvas<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Sorry I haven't posted very much recently. I haven't been idle, but I was working on a few Christmas gifts (including a kilt for my two year-old nephew) that didn't pertain to this blog.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DAkd8RA17WQ/UOWjedjcthI/AAAAAAAAAhg/Pv5P5pryZLQ/s1600/fc01_basting.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DAkd8RA17WQ/UOWjedjcthI/AAAAAAAAAhg/Pv5P5pryZLQ/s400/fc01_basting.jpg" width="298" /></a>Anyway, next on the lineup is a frock coat. Once again, I drafted my own pattern, based this time on a combination of drafts from R.I. Davis' <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Mens-Garments-1830-1900-R-I-Davis/dp/0713458933" target="_blank">Men's Garments, 1830-1900</a>.The collar is my own design, so we'll see how it works out. I just haven't been able to successfully draft a collar based on any system I've seen yet, but the second version I made for my muslin version of the coat seemed to work out well.</div>
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The first step for the frock coat (now basically following <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Victorian-Tailor-Introduction-Period-Tailoring/dp/0312642334" target="_blank">Maclochlainn's</a> hasty jacket directions at the end of his book) is to prepare the canvas. This is especially important for me, since I'm not making my frock coat from heavy wool, but from a very nice herringbone linen I found. It is very soft and drapey, and I need to make sure that it's well-supported. There are a series of diagrams and pictures in both Davies and Maclochlainn that describe the setup of coat canvasing, but I mainly used this diagram from Davies:</div>
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<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YMZiDncjGKs/UO8u3mCK79I/AAAAAAAAAio/Ez7RYDjuWY8/s1600/fc_canvas_layout.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YMZiDncjGKs/UO8u3mCK79I/AAAAAAAAAio/Ez7RYDjuWY8/s400/fc_canvas_layout.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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As you can see, there are three pieces - the main canvas, and then two additional pieces which reinforce the shoulder and chest. I cut the main pieces and one of the additional pieces on the straight grain, and the second shoulder canvas on the bias. Here are the main pieces and the collar canvas pieces.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bkvoqDSAp_w/UO8uV8orrKI/AAAAAAAAAig/9seSPhm2DYE/s1600/fc_canvas.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bkvoqDSAp_w/UO8uV8orrKI/AAAAAAAAAig/9seSPhm2DYE/s400/fc_canvas.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I could just go from there, but the next step is to shape the canvas so that it is more three-dimensional, and not just a flat piece. In order to do that, I took the dart out of the neck gore/lapel that you can see drawn in above, and then opened up several V's (what's the opposite of a dart? That's what these are) as you can see below, and inserted fabric to keep them open. As you can see, the lines start to flow and the canvas no longer lies flat on the table.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oj5MMoD1DuA/UO8vUnJWeQI/AAAAAAAAAiw/FMnJXjVwEzo/s1600/fc_canvas_darts.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oj5MMoD1DuA/UO8vUnJWeQI/AAAAAAAAAiw/FMnJXjVwEzo/s400/fc_canvas_darts.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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Now, after I've added the two shoulder/chest pieces (which have similar V's inserted into them) I pad stitched them all together. The vertical white lines are chalk lines to keep it all neat, and the chevrons are the pad stitching.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-q35hz59MJww/UO8vqpgX9vI/AAAAAAAAAi4/zuPGIfeNAlo/s1600/fc_canvas_padstitching.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-q35hz59MJww/UO8vqpgX9vI/AAAAAAAAAi4/zuPGIfeNAlo/s400/fc_canvas_padstitching.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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Next, I laid out my pattern pieces on the fabric. You can't see it in this photo, but the next couple will show off the true pattern and colour of the linen.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pUQbrzsgORk/UO8wJJGhYlI/AAAAAAAAAjA/iF0s2w8Q0MA/s1600/fc_fabric_layout.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pUQbrzsgORk/UO8wJJGhYlI/AAAAAAAAAjA/iF0s2w8Q0MA/s400/fc_fabric_layout.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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I've seen many different methods of pad stitching or otherwise attaching the canvas to the undercollar. I went with Maclochlainn on this one, which has you pad stitch the collar part, and side stitch the stand. You can't really see the side stitching in this photo because the stitches are small, but it does add body to the stand. Here I haven't ironed the fall line yet - just pressed it with my fingers - but it gives a good idea of how the collar will fall.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-89F8urbeK9U/UO8CJoSzdzI/AAAAAAAAAiE/W4VvI44PDm4/s1600/fc_padstitch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-89F8urbeK9U/UO8CJoSzdzI/AAAAAAAAAiE/W4VvI44PDm4/s400/fc_padstitch.jpg" width="297" /></a></div>
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This was a lucky break - I didn't even plan it because I completely forgot to think about it, but the herringbones lined up perfectly where the undercollar seam is, to form a chevron. Actually, now that I look at it again you can see that the grains are reversed. Ah well, you'll never see this part of the collar anyway. Even though you can't see any of the thread from the pad stitching.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-W-1LKcU2qwo/UO8woQEijMI/AAAAAAAAAjI/UavUt52iWOk/s1600/fc_collar_back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-W-1LKcU2qwo/UO8woQEijMI/AAAAAAAAAjI/UavUt52iWOk/s400/fc_collar_back.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />Andrewhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16521665413895628896noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6961676561087268976.post-7593398142429733162012-12-24T12:27:00.000-08:002012-12-29T13:30:21.031-08:00Smoking CapIt's cold outside, and it's snowing. A perfect time for a smoking cap.<br />
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This cap has two uses. The first - and whence the name - is it is what men would wear when they would smoke their cigars or pipes, in order to keep their hair from smelling smokey. This is also the idea behind the smoking jacket - something to keep your clothes smelling fresh. However, since I have (and many men of the time had) a moustache, there really isn't a lot you can do to keep from smelling smoky. Once you've smoked, if you try to kiss your sweetie she'll know. ;)<br />
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The other reason, and I think where the hat probably came from originally, is simply that without central heating it was cold in most houses, and you needed something to wear on your head. Not too formal - save the top hats and bowlers and homburgs for out-of-doors - but to wear in your own home you'd have a smoking cap, and a smoking jacket to wear along with it. These are really holdovers from an earlier time when men would wear a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Banyan_(clothing)" target="_blank">banyan</a>:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/dc/J_S_Copley_-_Nicolas_Boylston.jpg/472px-J_S_Copley_-_Nicolas_Boylston.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/dc/J_S_Copley_-_Nicolas_Boylston.jpg/472px-J_S_Copley_-_Nicolas_Boylston.jpg" width="315" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: black;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ward_Nicholas_Boylston" style="background-color: #f9f9f9; background-image: none; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 11px; line-height: 15.833333015441895px; text-align: left; text-decoration: initial;" title="Ward Nicholas Boylston"><span style="color: black;">Ward Nicholas Boylston</span></a><span style="background-color: #f9f9f9; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 11px; line-height: 15.833333015441895px; text-align: left;"> in a brilliant green banyan and a cap, painted by </span><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Singleton_Copley" style="background-color: #f9f9f9; background-image: none; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 11px; line-height: 15.833333015441895px; text-align: left; text-decoration: initial;" title="John Singleton Copley"><span style="color: black;">John Singleton Copley</span></a><span style="background-color: #f9f9f9; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 11px; line-height: 15.833333015441895px; text-align: left;">, 1767. From Wikipedia.</span></span></td></tr>
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Well, I'll tackle the smoking jacket in another post. But as you can see, this picture shows Boylston also wear a turban-like hat. In the 18th century this hat was generally made of four panels of fabric coming together in a peak:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="145" src="http://18thcenturyblog.com/images/uploads/1526_medium.jpg?1348931945" width="200" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From: <a href="http://18thcenturyblog.com/2010/03/modemakt-power-of-fashion" target="_blank">Modemakt/Power of Fashion Blog</a></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.augusta-auction.com/auctions/3/284/0284.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://www.augusta-auction.com/auctions/3/284/0284.jpg" width="160" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From: <a href="http://www.augusta-auction.com/component/auctions/?view=lot&id=730&auction_file_id=3" target="_blank">Augusta Auctions</a></td></tr>
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These would eventually change to more of a fez/pillbox shape for the Victorian smoking cap.<br />
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There are plenty of links online to patterns for smoking caps from <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=banyan&hl=en&tbo=d&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=eVbfUOzHEorK0AG9-IG4DA&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAA&biw=1024&bih=489#hl=en&tbo=d&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=smoking+cap+godey%27s&oq=smoking+cap+godey%27s&gs_l=img.3...663942.668493.4.668895.21.17.1.0.0.0.154.1346.11j6.17.0...0.0...1c.1.O6kg5kElDxw&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.&fp=b91d07b855171c3c&bpcl=40096503&biw=1024&bih=489" target="_blank">Godey's Magazine</a> (sort of a Victorian version of Better Homes & Garden and Vogue, mashed together), but most of them are appliq<span style="font-family: inherit;">ué or couched cord and braid. I wanted to embroider my pattern, so I found (what I thought was) a simple motif, and repeated it three times on a piece of paper the diameter of my head. I figured that three inches tall looked about right.</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pJf1UwFpVD8/ULdy0K4JOnI/AAAAAAAAAfc/5_k7np5zT4g/s1600/sc_02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pJf1UwFpVD8/ULdy0K4JOnI/AAAAAAAAAfc/5_k7np5zT4g/s400/sc_02.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I then used that paper as a pattern to cut out a length of heavy wool broadcloth - this is probably 28oz melton, definitely coat-weight - and a strip of linen backing. In the end I really didn't need the linen, but it helps the inside look neat. I cross stitched the wool to the linen.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pvcG2lBia_0/ULdyzS7t1hI/AAAAAAAAAfY/fw4z2aiFB38/s1600/sc_01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pvcG2lBia_0/ULdyzS7t1hI/AAAAAAAAAfY/fw4z2aiFB38/s400/sc_01.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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I then basted the paper with the motifs onto the wool, and back-stitched around all of the borders. If I did this again I'd use stem stitch instead, for a fuller, more raised border, but at least that transferred the pattern to the cloth. I then tore away the paper, picked out the little bits from underneath the stitches with a pair of tweezers, and was ready to embroider.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-drXGH8OdxM0/ULdy3EIseAI/AAAAAAAAAfo/8JRcWPKCCJk/s1600/sc_03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-drXGH8OdxM0/ULdy3EIseAI/AAAAAAAAAfo/8JRcWPKCCJk/s400/sc_03.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Almost all of the embriodery is padded satin stitch. Some of the leaves are herringbone stitch, and the purple tips of the white flower are French knots. This wasn't simple. All told, it took at least 40 hours to embroider all three motifs.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-406E23tAemI/UNiqPLfTguI/AAAAAAAAAgQ/4oQJBEAM9Gc/s1600/sc_05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-406E23tAemI/UNiqPLfTguI/AAAAAAAAAgQ/4oQJBEAM9Gc/s400/sc_05.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Bxh-Res9VQ0/UNiqPTOsUPI/AAAAAAAAAgY/zNOTDBviaIw/s1600/sc_06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Bxh-Res9VQ0/UNiqPTOsUPI/AAAAAAAAAgY/zNOTDBviaIw/s400/sc_06.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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As you can see from the back, I tried to keep the amount of embroidery floss used to a minimum.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AHKzV1kWnP4/UNiqPzzvQ5I/AAAAAAAAAgg/_JPu7aZw_O4/s1600/sc_07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AHKzV1kWnP4/UNiqPzzvQ5I/AAAAAAAAAgg/_JPu7aZw_O4/s400/sc_07.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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And the finished cap. The button is a metal washer covered with the same wool.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xfiOH7tosIQ/UNiqQlGU5bI/AAAAAAAAAgo/es2vFTmN0ZM/s1600/sc_08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xfiOH7tosIQ/UNiqQlGU5bI/AAAAAAAAAgo/es2vFTmN0ZM/s400/sc_08.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Now, having shown all that, let me just say that making a smoking cap is not tailor's work. You might have been able to purchase one pre-made in a haberdashery, but most often I believe they were made by a wife for her husband. There's a reason so many patterns show up in Godey's ladies magazine. However, from the amount of work it takes to embroider such a cap, it's no wonder that most of the patterns are for couching and appliq<span style="font-family: inherit;">ué - those methods are much faster!</span></div>
Andrewhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16521665413895628896noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6961676561087268976.post-11752542249670675962012-11-18T06:22:00.000-08:002012-11-18T06:22:05.242-08:00Waistcoat 6: Finished<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bjJx7BpU_kU/UKjtuGorLII/AAAAAAAAAe0/St9EEyC5VBA/s1600/wc18_finished.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bjJx7BpU_kU/UKjtuGorLII/AAAAAAAAAe0/St9EEyC5VBA/s400/wc18_finished.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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Finished! I like this waistcoat quite a bit. It fits very nicely, high under the arm in the armscye, which will give me good ease of movement. I know I haven't shown myself wearing any of the things I've finished recently, but once I have a whole outfit put together I'll wear everything at once.</div>
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This is the first time I've used silk thread for buttonholes. I have to say it's quite nice to work with. The only problem with these buttonholes is that the linen unraveled so easily. I had to do some thick overcast serging with regular thread before moving to the silk twist. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-w8RpfU8HEMs/UKjtuihh4nI/AAAAAAAAAe8/iSj2L5cXdLc/s1600/wc19_buttonholes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-w8RpfU8HEMs/UKjtuihh4nI/AAAAAAAAAe8/iSj2L5cXdLc/s400/wc19_buttonholes.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />Andrewhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16521665413895628896noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6961676561087268976.post-85881515790265808402012-11-05T10:50:00.000-08:002012-11-05T10:50:04.917-08:00Waistcoat 5: Almost Finished<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--hEyQtqp0mI/UJgHVObmMwI/AAAAAAAAAdY/a2p0XVvP61c/s1600/wc11_collar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--hEyQtqp0mI/UJgHVObmMwI/AAAAAAAAAdY/a2p0XVvP61c/s400/wc11_collar.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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First of all, here's a picture of what I was talking about in the last post, where the collar is sewn into the shoulder seam. This reduces additional bulk in the back, and keeps the collar from pressing against the back of your neck from the weight of the coat. A little thing, but remember that in Victorian times the coat was never taken off, so it doesn't matter what the back of your waistcoat looked like.</div>
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Now some pictures of the waistcoat at this stage. All it needs are buttonholes and buttons. And maybe a back adjustment strap. I was trying to make it fit well enough to not need a strap and buckle, but I think it will work better with it.</div>
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Here you can see some chalk marks I drew to make sure I line everything up correctly when putting on the buttons.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LTC84RUYLuU/UJgHUevx3mI/AAAAAAAAAdQ/tfsMzxW91zQ/s1600/wc10_almostfinished.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LTC84RUYLuU/UJgHUevx3mI/AAAAAAAAAdQ/tfsMzxW91zQ/s400/wc10_almostfinished.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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The back. I really wanted to make this of the same material as the lining, but as I bought the end of a roll of fabric for the lining I didn't quite have enough. I tried to make it work, even with the stripes running horizontally, but it just wasn't going to happen.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-l3VvtagE1hE/UJgHV5sbcqI/AAAAAAAAAdo/nVkhIrkhsmg/s1600/wc13_back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-l3VvtagE1hE/UJgHV5sbcqI/AAAAAAAAAdo/nVkhIrkhsmg/s400/wc13_back.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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The lining. You can see pleats at the front shoulders in the lining to help keep it from pulling.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ouahaBc8rCU/UJgHVc-AdrI/AAAAAAAAAdg/feb3hm-oZMY/s1600/wc12_lining.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ouahaBc8rCU/UJgHVc-AdrI/AAAAAAAAAdg/feb3hm-oZMY/s400/wc12_lining.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Detail of the felling where the lining meets the front facings.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-s6NuF4iBUmE/UJgHWQhPKcI/AAAAAAAAAdw/sCIdBDgBKDM/s1600/wc14_lining.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-s6NuF4iBUmE/UJgHWQhPKcI/AAAAAAAAAdw/sCIdBDgBKDM/s400/wc14_lining.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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And a detail of where the back lining meets the front. Remember that the front pieces were already lined before I added the back, so the back lining is felled onto the front lining.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JQHVTFCo8O0/UJgHYBdIQdI/AAAAAAAAAd4/CWEFPpP0rNs/s1600/wc15_lining.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JQHVTFCo8O0/UJgHYBdIQdI/AAAAAAAAAd4/CWEFPpP0rNs/s400/wc15_lining.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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I could have just made simple buttons, but I figured that a little extra something was worth it. I decided to do a very simple embroidery - just a few crossed lines tied together where they all cross. I did a circle of stay stitching around the edge of the button because this fabric frays very easily. Without the stitching, the fabric would just all fall apart at the back where I stitched it over the button molds.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8WMd36aTKJo/UJgHY0atfFI/AAAAAAAAAeA/RykKWHkSry4/s1600/wc16_buttons.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8WMd36aTKJo/UJgHY0atfFI/AAAAAAAAAeA/RykKWHkSry4/s400/wc16_buttons.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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A completed button. I sewed a thread shank onto the back of this one, but I'm not sure if I want to keep that, or simply sew the buttons directly onto the waistcoat. We'll see how this one works, or if it stands too far off the fabric.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5wqI6WPwuWY/UJgHZ5BNbqI/AAAAAAAAAeI/J_7Ani5A_VI/s1600/wc17_button.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5wqI6WPwuWY/UJgHZ5BNbqI/AAAAAAAAAeI/J_7Ani5A_VI/s400/wc17_button.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br />Andrewhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16521665413895628896noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6961676561087268976.post-20271067870711982192012-11-01T10:48:00.000-07:002012-11-12T09:01:17.366-08:00Waistcoat 4: Collar<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-g3fDVGo1JIE/UJKzrOKtZeI/AAAAAAAAAc4/uSuaPbttqmI/s1600/wc09_undercollar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-g3fDVGo1JIE/UJKzrOKtZeI/AAAAAAAAAc4/uSuaPbttqmI/s400/wc09_undercollar.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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This little guy was giving me some problems.<br />
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I was initially going to have a full collar on this waistcoat, with a stand and collar, wrapping all the way around the neck. My first draft of it was much too long, as I discovered in my muslin, so then I was waiting until I had completed the waistcoat before drafting the collar.<br />
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Since then I learned two things: first of all, how to draft the collar as it would look folded down, on the pattern draft, instead of opened up. That would have been easier than the way I did it, which is just to guess how the revers/lapel would fold down and look, and would have made it easier to judge the notch in the lapel. It would also have allowed me to draft the entire collar as part of the facing which wraps from the inside of the vest to the collar facing. Does that make sense? No? I'll have to find some pictures for a later post.<br />
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The second thing I learned is that many waistcoats, unless they have a shawl collar, just ended the collar at the shoulder seam. That is what I will do, so this little bit here is the underside of the collar, with the canvas pad stitched to give it some stiffness, and to create the roll from the stand to the collar. The front (right) will attach to the top of the lapel, and the rear (left) will be seamed into the shoulder seam. The next post will make all of this make sense, I promise.Andrewhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16521665413895628896noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6961676561087268976.post-55596588434796411232012-10-24T10:48:00.001-07:002012-10-24T10:49:27.781-07:00Waistcoat 3: Canvas<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ihdUxRFINgY/UIglcyXD12I/AAAAAAAAAcE/lDAcPKJj2GU/s1600/wc05_basting.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ihdUxRFINgY/UIglcyXD12I/AAAAAAAAAcE/lDAcPKJj2GU/s400/wc05_basting.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
First of all, let me just say that I ordered light green linen thread online, and when it arrived I saw that it was really more of a mint dental floss electric green. I suppose that since the fabric for this waistcoat is made of green and yellow threads that I should have gone for the lighter yellow instead of green anyway, but I'll stick with this and just use it where it won't show anyway.<br />
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I finished all of the welt pockets and basted them shut so they don't pull out of place while I work with the canvas. I also basted the pocket bags folded up in half so they don't accidentally get sewn into the canvas or seams.<br />
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The next step is interesting because it uses the waistcoat itself as the pattern instead of the paper pattern. Because I stretched the fabric in a few places (on purpose, with an iron, to give the fabric some shape beyond its flat nature), I simply lay the fabric on top of the canvas, basted it in place, and then trimmed around the edges. I then trimmed an additional quarter inch around all the edges except for the side and shoulder, where it will be seamed to the back piece.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jv45XHqHsho/UIgldVKE_EI/AAAAAAAAAcM/YFa6iC6s9f4/s1600/wc06_padstitching.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jv45XHqHsho/UIgldVKE_EI/AAAAAAAAAcM/YFa6iC6s9f4/s400/wc06_padstitching.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
The next step was to start shaping the lapels. I will eventually attach the collar to the tops of the lapels and neck. I'm not sure if the stay tape was needed here, but I put it in anyway, and then pad stitched the lapel. I've done this on a sample piece but never for real, and I must say I'm pretty happy with the result. The fabric is now stiffer because of being attached to the canvas, and it also folds back on its own, without any pressing.<br />
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Below the lapel you can see an additional piece of canvas added for buttonhole support.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WK6Gnt0VC0A/UIgleB-yFkI/AAAAAAAAAcU/sBJgsBfH3yA/s1600/wc07_lapel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WK6Gnt0VC0A/UIgleB-yFkI/AAAAAAAAAcU/sBJgsBfH3yA/s400/wc07_lapel.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
This is the back of the lapel. The line of basting stitches to indicate the roll line is still there, as well as the basting for the canvas, but otherwise you can't see any bright green thread from the stitches. Just a lot of little dimples. You can see how the lapel doesn't like being opened up flat, and wants to fold back.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-689o2gE_IXc/UIgle-khG9I/AAAAAAAAAcc/1l2VYckqHpM/s1600/wc08_canvas.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-689o2gE_IXc/UIgle-khG9I/AAAAAAAAAcc/1l2VYckqHpM/s400/wc08_canvas.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
Almost finished with this side. I just need to add the lining. Stay tape has been basted in around the bottom and front edges, and then the edge of fabric folded up over it (for a better picture of this, look at the the second photo, with the pad stitching - you can see that the edges have all been stitched back) and sewn in place with cross stitching. The stay tape gives it a nice firm edge. The armscye has been cross stitched in place without stay tape, so it's a little softer, and will go around my body better.<br />
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I said above that I just need to apply the lining. Unlike most modern patterns, this waistcoat is not made in two pieces with a shell and a lining. The lining is applied directly to the two front pieces, which are then attached to the back as complete pieces. I suppose it would be much easier to alter the waistcoat without having to change the lining, since it's all attached. Does that make sense? It will in my next post.Andrewhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16521665413895628896noreply@blogger.com4